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3d - Printworx

Case for Naze32, let me know what you think!

Started by dockman, Sunday,March 09, 2014, 02:16:45

Previous topic - Next topic

dockman

To help philtrum out I have been designing a case for the Naze32 to be 3d printed.  This is the first version I have come up with, simple 2 piece design.  To assemble you would need 4 10mm nylon threaded spacers, if mounting to normal 1.6mm grp which lots of frames are made of 4 m3 X 10 or m3 x 12 screws (nylon if possible) and to secure the top 4 m3 x 5 or m3 x 6 (also nylon if possible).  Naze32 goes into bottom of case, screws come up from underneath, nylon spacers then hold the Naze32 down, then you place top on and use screws to secure it.

If anyone has any suggestions to improve the design let me know, I always welcome feedback.  I will also be working on one that has some sort of vibration dampening, but it will take a little more thought to make it simple enough to print and not be too large.

Here are a few quick pics of design number one.





I fly stuff

barneyg

How do you access the TX/RX pins and the Frsky,buzzer & voltage monitor pins ?

Soul

Through the 3 cutouts in the case? Might have misunderstood the question though  :smiley:

Jimbodiddly


barneyg

Quote from: Soul on Sunday,March 09, 2014, 09:21:18
Through the 3 cutouts in the case? Might have misunderstood the question though  :smiley:

There are no cutouts for them :) ... they are optional pins holes on the pcb that are not populated by default.  The TX/RX pins are in the middle of the board and the Frsky, Buzzer and Voltage monitor pins  are to the right of the USB port.

I';d have though the RX/TX pins would require a hole in the top casing since I think fitting 90 degree ones wouldn';t work.  The other 3 sets could be 90 degree or straight up.

Check out http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:175442 this one is the other way up and assumes the motor pins are straight rather than 90 Degrees.  You will see 2 cutouts on the top either side of the USB ... I assume the 2nd one to the left of it is so you can see the status lights.

Soul


dockman

I can add spots to access the other pins no problem, this was version one remember I was expecting to have to add/modify to it.
I fly stuff

dockman

Here is version 2, has spots for all the connections now as well as a hole for the LEDs.  Changed how the top plate gets secured, just screws into the top of the bottom of the case so no spacers needed, just have to make sure you don';t over tighten the screws. 







I fly stuff

Hands0n

Liking the second design very much indeed.

Vibration dampening, I would assume, is achieved by mounting the entire case itself on suitable material rather than by anything more elaborate.
--
Danny
"Its better than bad, its good"

Current FCs: Pixhawk, APM 2.6, Naza M V2, Naze32, Flip32+ CC3D, KK2.1.5
Aircraft: miniMax Hex, DJI 550 (clone) TBS Disco, 450 Firefly, 250 Pro, ZMR250, Hubsan X4, Bixler 2

dockman

This one dose not include any provision for dampening, just updates to the mounting of the top and holes for more connections.  Also have a top with no extra holes, just a flat top.

Over the coming week I will be trying to sort out one with dampening in it, need to figure out the dampening part first then I can make it work in a case.  Want to keep it as simple as possible with as few parts as possible.
I fly stuff

Soul

Could it be made transparent? While having holes for the LEDs is great I imagine you';d only be able to see them stood directly above while I think it';s nice to be able to see them standing behind ready to take off?

dockman

If you had the top made of white you could prob see the led through it, or at least the glow of it. 
I fly stuff

Soul

Or enlarge the USB port cutout left so you can see the LEDs as well?

shazzy

Quote from: Soul on Sunday,March 09, 2014, 19:28:53
Could it be made transparent? While having holes for the LEDs is great I imagine you';d only be able to see them stood directly above while I think it';s nice to be able to see them standing behind ready to take off?

Having a transparent case would be an issue for the barometric pressure sensor.
Frames: Daya 550, TBS Discovery & BAH Nemesis 250 Mini H Quad
FC: Naze 32 Acro. Pixhawk
Motors: Emax 600Kv, Sunnysky 980Kv, Sunnysky 2206 2300Kv
FrSky Taranis with TBS Crossfire Modules
Dominator FPV Goggles FG58U VRx, TS5823 VTx, TS5800 VTx

Soul

You could still cover that sensor in foam as normal?

shazzy

Quote from: Soul on Monday,March 10, 2014, 08:38:03
You could still cover that sensor in foam as normal?

That has to be done irrespective of whether the case was transparent or not. I just assumed if one was to a thin or light foam it might not completely block the light.

Having a translucent top might help in scattering the led light while still providing some extra light blocking with the foam.
Frames: Daya 550, TBS Discovery & BAH Nemesis 250 Mini H Quad
FC: Naze 32 Acro. Pixhawk
Motors: Emax 600Kv, Sunnysky 980Kv, Sunnysky 2206 2300Kv
FrSky Taranis with TBS Crossfire Modules
Dominator FPV Goggles FG58U VRx, TS5823 VTx, TS5800 VTx

Soul


shazzy

Frames: Daya 550, TBS Discovery & BAH Nemesis 250 Mini H Quad
FC: Naze 32 Acro. Pixhawk
Motors: Emax 600Kv, Sunnysky 980Kv, Sunnysky 2206 2300Kv
FrSky Taranis with TBS Crossfire Modules
Dominator FPV Goggles FG58U VRx, TS5823 VTx, TS5800 VTx

dockman

Got one printed off after making a few changes, turned out good I think.

I fly stuff

barneyg


philtrum

Thanks to Dockman they are now available for sale

there was a few revisions to get to this one and I think its great

http://makeitbuildit.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=91

thanks
Phil
Many Thanks
Phil
[url="//www.makeitbuildit.co.uk"]www.makeitbuildit.co.uk[/url]