Bixler v1.1 build

[Col_M]

Here';s my Bixler 1.1 build 

First thing I did was fitted machined 9g servo mounts for the rudder and elevator. I carved out the foam first so it wouldn';t sit proud and the servo would be in it';s normal position. Next the mounts were stuck in with gorilla glue.


Servos fitted, as you can now see the servos can easilly be unscrewed and replaced. Probably a good idea with cheap plastic geared servos.


Test fitted the two halves to make sure the servo arms cleared each other.


I wanted the vertical and horizonal stabilisers to be removable, I';ll do that by holding them in with nylon nuts and bolts. I started off with glueing two nuts into the vertical stabiliser. The cavity between them is for the head of another bolt that holds the horizonal stabiliser too.


Cut a slit in the horizonal stabiliser and gorilla glued in a carbon strip.


Added a carbon strip into the vertical stabiliser too.


Next I used gorrila glue to put carbon strips into the grooves of the two halves. This will make the tail incredibly stiff in the up-down plane.




I will also be adding two strips perpendicular to those on the sides of the tail too to give stiffness in the left-right plane. The reason I chose this method over a single carbon tube is that it';s actually stiffer dut to increasing the second moment of area. It';s the scientific reason why larger diameter tubes bend less than narrower tubes and why I wanted to get the stiffening material as far out as possible from the centre of the tail. I used strips rather than tubes as well because each pair only needs to resist bending in one axis 
Here';s a cross sectional diagram


Next I test fitted the motor, machined mount and prop to make sure it all fitted together. Niiiiice 


It was time to glue the two halves together with gorilla glue.


Next up, glued the motor mount in. I took an age lining it up as if it wasn';t straight my motor would be off to the side if I used the upper motor locations, I popped some hot glue on the edges while the gorilla glue dried to hold it in place.


Now came test fitting the removable tail sections. I still need to trim the bolts and I think I may sink and glue the washers into the foam so the heads sit flush.




And she';s done


I also put a channel behind the cockpit for the ESC leads to go down in but I didn';t need to show you that, I';m sure you know what a cut channel looks like. The ESC up there should get some good airflow too

Full specs:

Bixler v1.1
Turnigy Plush 40A ESC
Turnigy 2826 2200kv motor
4x TG9e servos
2x Small Parts CNC 9g Servo mounts
Small Parts CNC motor mount
9x4 prop
FrSky X8R Rx

[guest2350]

nice work  I want to get a bixler to add to the fleet once I built my son a quad!.. bixler would be better for longer flight times I think?

[Hands0n]

A lovely build there Col_M - I picked up a few good ideas for next time or enhancing this build.

I am a bit worried about airflow around the motor on mine. Its such a snug fit, and I had to fit a backing plate in the motor mount that completely blocks any airflow through that.  Thinking now I may need to cut into the foam cowling so as to allow some air to channel in behind the motor and also open up the aperture it is within. Hmmmm 

When does she maiden?

[dp106]

A very meticulous build, there well done. Wish I had the patience to do all that.  Where do you get the carbon bits from? Hobbyking??

[Col_M]

Thanks folks,

nice work  I want to get a bixler to add to the fleet once I built my son a quad!.. bixler would be better for longer flight times I think?

Yeah, it all depends on the battery size, motor power and prop really but planes have the potential to stay up much longer due to being able to glide and only having one motor  ::)

A lovely build there Col_M - I picked up a few good ideas for next time or enhancing this build.

I am a bit worried about airflow around the motor on mine. Its such a snug fit, and I had to fit a backing plate in the motor mount that completely blocks any airflow through that.  Thinking now I may need to cut into the foam cowling so as to allow some air to channel in behind the motor and also open up the aperture it is within. Hmmmm 

When does she maiden?

I was thinking about the airflow to the motor too, the inlet is taken up by the ESC wires, I may cut a duct in somewhere too depending on how warm the motor gets in flight.
Not sure on the maiden, it';s a bit blowy out right now so I may have to wait until I can get to my brother';s place in Wiltshire where I';ll have more space. 

A very meticulous build, there well done. Wish I had the patience to do all that.  Where do you get the carbon bits from? Hobbyking??

I love tinkering and have the patience to take a couple weeks thinking and waiting for parts :)
Carbon bits are from here - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/LaptopConnections/Strips-/_i.html?_fsub=4115680012&_sid=56575772&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
CNC parts are from here - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/smallpartscnc/

I was particularly impressed with Small Parts CNC, the parts aren';t all that expensive considering the quality and shipping from California took from Sun-Mon for only £3.80, not bad.

[dyls]

 
Looks good.

There';s some good stuff over on the rcgroups forum (hobbyking) on the bixler range.
Some have put a vent hole and air scoops on theirs.
I see this is being considered.

I personally don';t think you';ll need it.

There';s some servo location mods which I would do, if I built a Bixler1.
The servo';s are installed much closer to the tail, this helps master CofG.

There';s many more mods as well.

Have fun and I also look forward to news on how you get on.


Dyl

[guest325]

Nice bit of fettling there, this is what makes the difference with any artf from HK or any manufacturer; generally speaking the models are made to a price not to a quality level so fettling is par for the course if you want a really nice model!