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22 Aug 2019 22:47:32
Sorted mate  ~~
22 Aug 2019 10:27:36
Sure. But basically, all the subjects are getting cut off.
21 Aug 2019 18:14:54
Can you pm me a screen shot of what you mean
21 Aug 2019 12:15:41
Gaza - can you make the subject line section in the forum topic list wider? It's cutting off the subject field really short.
19 Aug 2019 09:14:20
Good for you!  ~~
18 Aug 2019 19:13:57
Had another negative encounter, it's been a few years since the last one, just an uneducated ******, going on about drones being illegal yada yada yada.    :-/
Still that didn't spoil my flying time, had an absolute blast  ~~
07 Aug 2019 19:52:01
ooooh mrs jones  :D
30 Jul 2019 15:26:34
D.B. you tightwad.. :cool:
29 Jul 2019 20:14:10
DB that just means you have shed loads of props in the first place ;-)
29 Jul 2019 18:53:33
Just had a thought, even with all the crashing I've done, I haven't bought any replacement props in over a year ~~
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Printing 3d Forum

New LiPo connector soldering quality hmmmm

Started by Gav, Thursday,June 27, 2013, 18:54:21

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Just got some new 4s Zippo lipo';s and with all my lipos, like many of us, I fit my preferred connectors. 
It';s a bugbear of mine to see bad soldering or dry joints on new kit.  All wires on these lipo';s seemed a bit sub par with only the very tip looking like it was ';tinned'; before being soldered into the original bullet connectors.  You can just see the shiney tip and then naff  dark dry un tinned remainder of the exposed wires ...  I';m not putting that back in a connector like that.

Probably OK but I prefer it done properly, so a quick dunk in some flux and re tinned.



As a general rule, you should always re-tin a wire you are about to solder so that the solder in the wire matches the solder you are about to use - you can';t tell what was used before so....
Aussie on the loose in Belfast.


Nice one GAV, I';m just done converting to these, and hope connecting my two little LiPos in parallel won';t give anyone the jitters, they are charged individually then measured to ensure they start at the same voltage before use.

KK2, NAZA M/V2 ugrade, Spektrum DX 8, Hubsan X4
Immersion 25Mw vtx, GoPro 4, Black Pearl Display
Walkera 2 axis gimbal


The pot of flux in your pics looks like Fry Power flux.
This is an acid based flux ("Power Flow paste is an acid based flux that begins cleaning on contact. Any residues can be easily cleaned in water. Power Flow paste can be used on a variety of bare metals including copper, brass and terne coated metals....").
On one of the tutorials I watched recently it was suggested that you should not use acid based flux in electronic soldering.....or perhaps it is only on pcbs.
Is this advice over cautious?  If I can continue to use this it would suit me well.


What is wrong in using resin cored electrical solder? as used in electronic/repairing  of  pcbs (not necessarily surface mount stuff...)
Let's be careful out there.
SAFETY is.. NO accident.


There is nothing wrong with using Rosin cored solder.
This link discusses the issue.

At the end it states you should not use acid based fluxes with electrical components as it can damage them.  I guess that makes it OK to use it for connecting wires and non electronic components (such as connectors, wires etc).

The powerflux makes he solder flow very well so it is an attractive product (intended for joining copper plumbing pipes).  I guess I will invest in some more cored solder.


All the advises I';ve read says not to use plumbers flux (acid) as it corrodes. Obviously not wanted on electronics but I wouldn';t use it on battery terminals either. I just changed connectors on a used Lipo and there was corrosion of the wires I stripped back indicating acid-based flux was used to connect the original deans plug. It took a lot of cleaning before my resin core solder took.
Ifly4 no more, Hubsan X4, R550v2, X650F-V4


I guess I will remove the powerflow flux from my electrical soldering kit and put it back in the plumbing tool kit.
I just saw an interesting video on making your own rosin flux.
See the link

Another interesting refererence is http://www.willingtons.com/my mac/soldering.htm

and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_(metallurgy)

I have just been in my workshop looking for a big tin I have from my Grandfather, which contains a while powder that I think is a flux- not sure if it is for solder or brazing.  I vaguely remember him using it (making a paste and putting it ona joint.  I must have about 2Kgs of it.  It may be rosin powder.  The label is Baker Dental Gold, 52 High Holborn.  I have been trying to link it to Bakers No 3 solder flux but  can not find a link.  Anyone got any ideas?  Perhaps he just stored the powder in this tin!


I heard a discussion on RC Heli Nation about soldering the other day that suggested you shouldn';t allow the solder to wick up the wire too far as it creates a stress point. That said I would have allowed more than your zippys had if I where doing it.

With the flux, I use LACO regular flux http://www.laco.com/soldering-fluxes/regular-flux-paste/ and have done for years on all kinds of electronics. It';s non-acid, non-lead and non-toxic, so I can inhale all day  ;D


Quote from: mogwai101 on Tuesday,August 20, 2013, 17:43:43

.  The label is Baker Dental Gold, 52 High Holborn.  I have been trying to link it to Bakers No 3 solder flux but  can not find a link.  Anyone got any ideas?  Perhaps he just stored the powder in this tin!

Sounds like flux for silver soldering to me.  Not the stuff for soft soldering.  If it is the flux powder for silver soldering then it could be worth something as it is expensive these days.  Trouble is you need someone to try it for you (Model Engineer) with high heat brazing equipment.
Let's be careful out there.
SAFETY is.. NO accident.


I will have a go myself as I have a TIG welding station.
I will look into it.....and report in due time.