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Tuesday,November 19, 2019, 07:33:20

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ched:
18 Oct 2019 11:25:16
Sounds good yama. Would love to see some images. 3d models sound cool too
yama:
18 Oct 2019 10:32:38
i might have to do a review. the 21mp camera is excellent at producing high quality 3d models for mapping.
ched:
10 Oct 2019 16:56:16
Show us some picys and maybe post a review in a thread?
yama:
09 Oct 2019 14:13:10
must admit this anafi is tiny and looks like a toy in a lunchbox but performs like a professional product.
yama:
09 Oct 2019 14:11:52
went ahead and bought one. about to find out if the 21mp camera improves photogrammetry surveys.
ched:
08 Oct 2019 17:14:17
Not tried a parrot anafi but I thought parrot were stopping 'drone' production?
yama:
07 Oct 2019 13:25:37
anyone tried a parrot anafi?
Gaza07:
26 Sep 2019 11:33:59
We know a song about that dont we  :D
Andy7:
26 Sep 2019 08:38:34
 :laugh:
Bad Raven:
26 Sep 2019 07:10:39
Adopts Australian accent "Black, that's not Black, its a dirty grey, THIS is Black........"   :D
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3d - Printworx

Printing 3d Forum

Ev100 diversity mod_how I did it

Started by tipsy trucker, Saturday,January 26, 2019, 20:37:04

Previous topic - Next topic

tipsy trucker

I know it's been done before but I did it a slightly different way, which I found easy so I thought I'd share. Obviously this is on your own head, will certainly void warranties and could result in anything from magic smoke to death..... etc etc

Firstly, I got the eachine pro58 Vrx and flashed it with perx firmware

The plan was to try to remove the existing receiver which is simply soldered to the main board. However, I found "pinouts" for both receivers and they're not the same unfortunately (besides, the pro58 wouldn't have fitted physically).

A video of the process on YouTube explained that I'd need to use a 5v regulator which I didn't have to hand so I went a different route....

A few minutes with a Stanley knife cutting the solder on the original receiver got that out in short order - certainly quicker than wicking it away.

Then, using the pinouts off t'internet I soldered 8 wires to where the old receiver once was (9 minus rssi); two slightly thicker for the +5v and ground and 6 cut from an old hard drive ribbon cable.

That done, I removed the pins from the pro58 so I had a row of 9 holes and soldered my wires through their relevant "hole"

All up and running and some bad news for me but good news for you....

The buttons won't work as far as I can see but the knob kinda button on the new receiver works fine so save yourself the hassle and just do the 5v+, gnd and video and all will be well!

If you're handy with a soldering iron and Stanley knife I reckon this can be done in half an hour, I just wish I'd taken pictures as I went along. Hope this helps

ched

Interesting. Have you tested yet?
Picys would have been very handy. Well done.

How have you mounted the pro58? Do you have any picys of that?
I try :-)

tipsy trucker

Sunday,January 27, 2019, 00:17:21 #2 Last Edit: Sunday,January 27, 2019, 00:37:49 by tipsy trucker
The receiver came with a double sided sticky pad so I've just stuck it to the top of the goggles above my left eye; not as tidy as I was hoping for but it's ok. I trimmed a small notch out of the case to get the wires through.

I have tested and signal seems to be very strong, unfortunately I didn't have the patience to try it as standard first (the weather hasn't been kind so I took the opportunity to do the mod instead) so I can't compare really.

To make up for the photos a little; once you've removed the receiver you'll have a row of 9 pads on the board and two sets of three above them where the antennae were connected. Along the 9; 4th is gnd, 5th is 5v and 8th is video (9th is also ground which you may need for the video) that's left to right if the antenna are at the top.

On the pro58, with the screen facing you and the antennae at the top (the connections are underneath); 1st is 5v, 3rd is gnd  (2nd is also gnd) and 6th is video (again from left to right)


tipsy trucker

What I found with the buttons is that you need to enable "fs buttons" on the pirx menu but the frequency will change 1hz and go straight back to where it was, it also changes frequency at random and loses signal so I've disabled fs buttons and I'm happy enough with how it works now. Whether I did something wrong or if fatshark buttons work differently to whatever's coming out of the board - I've no idea but it's not a problem to me.

For the notch that the wires go through, I cut away the lip on the top half of the casing with a Stanley knife where the two halves join and then shaved about .5mm deeper than that. In my case about 10mm wide but for three or four wires I'm sure you could half that