Think i've broke my RTF Wizard X220 HELP :(

[NickFromNorthWales]

I've broken my Wizard and I didn't even get to fly it!

I has a SYMA but wanted to fly Acro, so I'm new to FPV

I got it RTF and first bound it to the flight controller got it up and running on beta flight but then the receiver tab wasn't showing any sign of input on screen or physically it wouldn't even arm or respond to stick input...

Tried a few different videos, and I think I'm losing my mind

https://youtu.be/oLg5Z2ysAB0

I was watching a video a couple of nights ago and tried following it (not the above video) it told me to unplug and re plug on the other side of the board like he does at 5.57 in that video, then to change where the other end plugged into my FS-iAs6B to going across CH5 CH6 and B/VCC at the top, I moved it back to how it was recently but when I was putting it back I put the receiver end the wrong way around (black cable on the inside) a few times, I've flashed successfully since to try and solve the problem but now the led on my receiver isn't coming on with power input  I think I've broken either the cable head or receiver... what should I do?

Should I buy an upgrade like in the video above?

And where can I buy another cable?

Or any other ideas?

[Cheredanine]

Hi, think that is a bit garbled by reductive text, assume you are using flysky?
If you change receivers as well as wiring you may need to change protocols within beta flight, please try and re articulate accurately and concisely what you are trying to do and someone will give you specific instructions (probably one of the flysky users)

Otherwise if you provide power and the receiver doesn’t power up then yes, shopping time for a new receiver (believe it should come with a cable set)

Off the top on my head, unmanned tech and possibly hobbyrc stock flysky, the advantage of either of these is they are reputable UK stockists who can provide support, there are probably others, otherwise you are talking hobbyking or banggood, again one of the flysky boys (Ched I am talking about you :) ) may help out

[ched]

You called Cheredanine 

OK Nick. To help we need some info. Can you post the exact link of the Wizard you bought? Hopefully we can see the spec.
I guess it came with a A8S rx which is small but it has very poor range.
Let us know the spec and maybe some picys of the fc and rx and I am sure we can get you up and running.

[NickFromNorthWales]

https://m.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220-FPV-Racer-Blheli_S-Naze32-6DOF-5_8G-48CH-200MW-700TVL-Camera-w-FlySky-I6-RTF-p-1077100.html?rmmds=myorders

That's the exact one I got, problem is my receiver doesn't seem to be receiving any power from my flight controller

Anyone recommend what I should buy to replace it (without soldering haha)

I'm in work at the moment so I'll put up some pictures tonight/tomorrow...

The help is much appreciated guys!

[NickFromNorthWales]

https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2_4G-6CH-i-BUS-PPM-PWM-Receiver-for-AFHDS-i6s-i6-i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html

I was thinking of getting that as a replacement and upgrade from my last stock receiver but I think I need a male to female cable which i have no idea where to find haha

[NickFromNorthWales]

And is there any videos or websites you can recommend for a newbie so that I get a better understanding of my drone and it's components and what they do?

I'm slowly picking things up but I dont think I'm on a very fast learning curve at the moment

[Cheredanine]

Holy 2015! has a naze32 in it and is using PWM!!!

You are gonna need a new rx, Ched will sort that, probably switch it to I us at the same time, your other problem is the flight controller is so old it won’t run the latest releases.

Ps ask, we will happily spout she’d loads (I will give you a brief - ha ha. -overview later this evening in here

[NickFromNorthWales]

Haha no idea if that's a good or a bad thing, cheers mate legend

[ched]

OK so looking at the listing it is a F3 flight controller (says Naze32 in image but lower F3) and a Flysky iA6B receiver. Their choice of rx seems weird as it's big. Does it have a case on and look like this :https://goo.gl/KVtq3v?

From here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2761374-Eachine-Wizard-X220-ARF-F3-Updated-Version-(review) it looks like the receiver is connected via 3 wires in PPM mode. An image of your one and the wires might be handy.
The 3 wires should be Black = 0v, Red =5V and White = PPM signals. The plug goes into the rx on vertically Ch1(PPM) if thats how its connected with the White closest to the writing on the top (green and black).

I don't know if you have a multimeter? If you do you need plug in the battery (PROPS OFF) set multimeter to read dc volts (about 20v) and put black probe on black and red on red. Hopefully the reading should be 5v. If it is then the FC is giving out the correct voltage to power the rx. If not then you could have killed the FC. Check if any lights on the FC? If it has lights on that is good.
The iA6B is quite a big rx but it does PWM, PPM and iBus. As the FC should be set to PPM (Receiver tab in BetaFlight) then it's easiest to stick with that. Actually on the Config page of BetaFlight where it says receiver which one is selected (RX_PPM) or RX_serial?

So first off if you have a multimeter check the voltage, second in BetaFlight on the Config page which receiver mode is selected?
Once you have those answers let us know and we will progress.

If you want a new rx you can get the one I linked to above but it will take a few weeks! Alternatively search for iA6B on Amazon or ebay and you should be able to get one but you never know we might be able to sort the issue out without a new rx. It might just be a config issue.

[Cheredanine]

Flyingtech.co.uk for rx mate

[ched]

https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2_4G-6CH-i-BUS-PPM-PWM-Receiver-for-AFHDS-i6s-i6-i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html

I was thinking of getting that as a replacement and upgrade from my last stock receiver but I think I need a male to female cable which i have no idea where to find haha

That receiver is good, I have one. It does come with cables but the little plugs on it don't directly connect to the cable you have!
You can connect this via ppm or the better iBus but it will require soldering. iBus is a better way for the rx to talk to the Flight Controller but at this stage it doesn't really matter. If you use iBus then the tx and the fc need to be configured differently (depending on how it was setup originally.
Realistically I would suggest you get a soldering iron, some solder (NOT LEAD FREE) and some heat shrink. That way when you crash you will have some of the tools you need to fix things.
There are a lot of different components that never come with matching plugs/sockets or are solder only. Like motors to esc, battery connectors etc.

[ched]

Just to let you know only reason I suggested Amazon or ebay is you may only need a rx and some of the p&p on quad sites make things expensive.

You will get much better support from a proper 'quad shop' and there are a good few around just ask if you want recommendation.

[Cheredanine]

Interlude -Brief and dramatically over simplified summary of parts in a quad and what they do:

And when I say over simplified I really mean it, just something as simple as the frame can spark:
Aluminium standoff’s -what grade aluminium
Aluminium, steel or tatianium nuts and bolts, cap head? Button head?
What type of carbon, how is it cut (direction)
So this is reallly just to get you familiar with the basic parts.

Frame - the carbon and metal bits -pretty self explanatory, good frames are well thought out, protecting components and giving places to mount stuff. At first you tend to think your frame needs to be heavy to be durable but actually lighter quads carry less momentum into crashes so don’t need to be as strong, also the grade of material effects both weight and strength. The frame also governs the layout of the motors, racing quads tend to favour “stretched x” layouts where the distance between the front and back motors is longer than the distance between the left and right. Acro quads tend to be true x or even short x.

Stack -the electrical boards, I am gonna list them out, in many cases multiple boards are combined, this tends to be cheaper to buy and lighter as well as easier to build but means if one component fails you have to replace the lot so can be more expensive, it also gives less isolation and can result in interference on fov feed.

Flight controller -the brains, they will generally be reverend to by the cou generation (F1, F3, F4 and F7), F1s (naze32 for example) are pretty dead, F3 are struggling, F4 is the standard nowerdays and F7 optimisation is working its way in. This board has sensors built in to it which we are gonna call the gyro, and runs flight control software like Betaflight. It basically takes the signal from the receiver telling it what you are commanding the quad to do, takes a data set from its on board gyro, works out what it needs to do to make the quad behave and sends those signals to the ESCs

Power Distribution board - this has a connector to the lipo and sends power out to many, but not all other components, it may well have a regulator on it so it can provide 5v as well as battery voltage but many flight controllers also have this nowerdays too. It is very common for the PDB to be integrated into the flight controller

ESCs (electronic speed controllers) one for each motor, these take battery power from the PDB and based on what the signal is from the flight controller, change the speed of the motor it is controlling.
The protocol the flight controller nowerdays tends to be digital (dshot) as this gives a more stable and accurate signal than the old PWM based protocols (PWM, oneshot and multishot). ESCs typically run a piece of software called blheli, there are a number of flavours of this, original blheli, which no one uses nowerdays, blheli_s - what you have, ok, blheli32- the current generation.

Motors, -pretty self evident, knowing what motors to use with that quad and props to produce what flying style is in the area of complex
Size is expresses as a 4 figure number eg 2206 the first two are the width of the stator in mm, the second two are the height in mm
The speed of the motor is expressed in kv which is rpm per volt

OSD (on screen display) these used to be separate on on the PDB but nowerdays tend to be on the flight controller or built into the cam.

Rx (receiver) - will need to be from the same manufacturer as your radio, takes the signal from your radio, translates it and tells your flight controller what to do, this is unidirection, from the rx to the F.C. there are various protocols for this, in the old days PWM was used with one wire for each channel, then PPM took over as a serial protocol with 1 wire for all channels, now digital protocols (sbus, ibus etc are used -quicker and more stable).  The conversation can be bidirectional with the F.C. passing telemetry data back to the rx which will transmit back to the tx, but this largely pointless for fpv.

Camera - lots of important detail here, latency, lense, TVL, sensor type, light handling etc etc. Takes an image, most can add the lipo voltage and flight time to it, then passes it on, eventually to the vtx, although usually via the flight controller so it can do the OSD bit.

Vtx (video transmitter) - takes the video signal and transmits it to your goggles, antenna selection is an art in its own right.

Props - just too complex, what is good for one quad may well not be good for another, what is good for one pilot may well not be for another etc etc.

Lipo -generally most people are flying 4 cell (4s) which means 16.8v when fully charged. They have a basic summary of how much they can hold (eg 1300 mah means it can provide 1.3amps for an hour), a c rating, which is multiplied by the mah to give you a max amps, (always over hyped by manufacturers) so a 1300mah 50c can provide 65 Amps max, what you try and draw is governed by your throttle, your motors, your props and the weight/momentum

How is that for a primer?

[Saleem]

Woooh,long post alert,i started reading then skipped to the end,does it count?

[hoverfly]

Woooh,long post alert,i started reading then skipped to the end,does it count?

don't count you missed out...


Motor Kv has nothing to do with the applied voltage.  Instead, Kv has to do with the back-emf .

The motor Kv constant is the reciprocal of the back-emf constant:

K_v = \frac{1}{K_e}

So Kv tells us the relationship between motor speed and generated back-emf.

A 2300 Kv motor will generate a 1 V back-emf when the motor is rotating at 2300 RPM.  At 23,000 RPM that motor will generate 10 V.

[Cheredanine]

don't count you missed out...


Motor Kv has nothing to do with the applied voltage.  Instead, Kv has to do with the back-emf .

The motor Kv constant is the reciprocal of the back-emf constant:

K_v = \frac{1}{K_e}

So Kv tells us the relationship between motor speed and generated back-emf.

A 2300 Kv motor will generate a 1 V back-emf when the motor is rotating at 2300 RPM.  At 23,000 RPM that motor will generate 10 V.

Lol yep, lots of stuff over simplified in there in an attempt not to make it 15 pages long :)

[hoverfly]

Lol yep, lots of stuff over simplified in there in an attempt not to make it 15 pages long :)

Good guide  covering  more or less everything you need to get started. I get pi$$ed off getting directed to Spewtube
to get info, trying to filter out the numbnuts who know f/a and drawl on with out imparting any really useful info.
It seems ppl today can't follow written instructions  e.g press the button (A) to increase the contrast, press button (B)
to decrease contrast. FFS they have to watch a vid of  d/head pressing  a button..

Now all we need is a quick guide to setting up filters, or if they are any use anyway. .. No hurry the Chameleons are flying fine , same for the Air-Ro's, but the sparrow is being a bit of a pig.. :embarrassed :embarrassed

[Two-Six]

K_v = \frac{1}{K_e}
Eh?

No idea about this kind of thing, I am numblexic.

[NickFromNorthWales]

Yea this is the receiver I had, looks exactly like that, but I think I've fried it...

https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-2_4G-6CH-FS-iA6B-Receiver-PPM-Output-With-iBus-Port-p-978603.html?p=FU28156904672014077T



Cause I think ive fried it, if I buy these two I should be able to connect to my flight controller with this receiver and cable shouldn't I?

https://m.banggood.com/10pcs-22AWG-...rference-Servo-Extension-Cable-p-1050822.html

https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2...r-AFHDS-i6s-i6-i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html

[NickFromNorthWales]

Should be with me in 5-9 days

[hoverfly]

Those leads wont be compatible with the  bottom receiver only the one at the top  as it has Dupont connectors  3 pin as the servo leads.
It depends on the original  system, the receiver at the top has a ppm output  using only one wire, if you just replace that you wont need all the other kit.

[Stactix]

I've broken my Wizard and I didn't even get to fly it!

I has a SYMA but wanted to fly Acro, so I'm new to FPV

I got it RTF and first bound it to the flight controller got it up and running on beta flight but then the receiver tab wasn't showing any sign of input on screen or physically it wouldn't even arm or respond to stick input...

Tried a few different videos, and I think I'm losing my mind

https://youtu.be/oLg5Z2ysAB0

I was watching a video a couple of nights ago and tried following it (not the above video) it told me to unplug and re plug on the other side of the board like he does at 5.57 in that video, then to change where the other end plugged into my FS-iAs6B to going across CH5 CH6 and B/VCC at the top, I moved it back to how it was recently but when I was putting it back I put the receiver end the wrong way around (black cable on the inside) a few times, I've flashed successfully since to try and solve the problem but now the led on my receiver isn't coming on with power input  I think I've broken either the cable head or receiver... what should I do?

Should I buy an upgrade like in the video above?

And where can I buy another cable?

Or any other ideas?

Some pictures of how you have set up will help, I have had a wizard and used those recievers, they aren't bad in my experience. Probably the only part of the wizard that I didn't have to replace due to a fault!
I had my reciever cable connected to the connector nearest the camera.
I had the other end connected to ch1/PPM I believe (Pretty sure it can only go 1 way round)

Will you be flying FPV or just Line of sight?
If FPV, I'd reccomend looking into a different camera as the wizards cam isn't nice. (Run Cam swift 2s are nice, no soldering needed although I'd reccomend soldering so you can get VBat (Monitors your battery voltage) First 20 or so flights I used a cheap battery checker, stuck on top of my bat connected the white pins and it'll beep when the battery runs low. With these lipos you want to keep it above 3.3-3.5 volts per cell. do not run down till they run out  as it can damage the battery / increase chance of a fire.

I'd also advise getting some different props.
And a spare motor or two / ESC's
I was in a similar position to you around a year ago wanted to avoid soldering, now I love soldering despite being a clumsy baboon.

My wizard has had 2 motor changes, 2 esc changes (one 3 flights in) two vtx changes, one FC change and two different cameras! It does not look like a wizard anymore.

[NickFromNorthWales]

        ... Popping the 5 incher's FC onto the 6 incher would seem to be the obvious choice .... unless ...
        there might be an underlying reason the FC died, in which case you could feasibly fry the other one too :eek:

Someone in a different forum said the above... so I was wondering...

    https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-2_4G-...t-With-iBus-Port-p-978603.html?rmmds=myorders

    https://m.banggood.com/Flysky-X6B-2...i6x-Transmitter-p-1101513.html?rmmds=myorders

    http://graysonhobby.com/ppm-sbus-solderless-receiver-harness-for-wizard.html

    I've got all of the above on order now, the stock reciever an upgraded reciever and the required cable to connect...

    Was just wondering when these arrive will these also break if I connect them? Or if done correctly should be fine?
     
https://youtu.be/oLg5Z2ysAB0

    Was going to follow this video

[ched]

I haven't watched the vid but as long as the flight controller is working OK and providing the correct voltage (5V) to the rx it should be fine.
Unfortunately you cannot rely on the colour code of the wires. You need to double check that the correct pin at one end of the plug goes to the correct pin at the other end. i.e. check the 0v, 5v and signal wires from the rx go to the correct pins on the fc BEFORE powering it on.

[NickFromNorthWales]

Alright so I got my receiver connected to flight controller and binded to the radio, everything seemed okay on beta flight (followed Joshua Bardwells video) this time it was showing the stick inputs on the screen this time managed to set an arm switch put everything back together and props on went outside armed and throttle on didn't take come of the floor or anything

Was running everything on ppm

Any chance any of you are free around 7-10pm to talk me through the right settings for getting it into the air and setting up the fpv goggles?

[ched]

When you armed did props spin?
When you throttle up did props spin faster and it just didn't lift off? If so you might have wrong props on motors. i.e. motors are spinning the props to push quad into ground not lift it up. Normally writing on props faces up.

So if motors did spin double check you have correct props on correct motors.

[Stactix]

When you armed did props spin?
When you throttle up did props spin faster and it just didn't lift off? If so you might have wrong props on motors. i.e. motors are spinning the props to push quad into ground not lift it up. Normally writing on props faces up.

So if motors did spin double check you have correct props on correct motors.

I can't count how many times I've done this!

[NickFromNorthWales]

They spinned when armed, im sure they were on the correct way, top left + bottom right clockwise and top right + bottom left anti clockwise

It remember it spinning faster when i pushed the throttle up (was quite baked at midnight) but I remember it spinning faster when I moved the right stick for some reason.... but again no lift I moved all the sticks in every direction... no lift, then it un bound from the receiver, at this point i decided to hit the hay

[NickFromNorthWales]

Receiver unbound from the radio*

[ched]

I have never had a receiver unbind from a FlySky tx. I have a X6B, iA6B and an iA10B not had an issue with any of them. In fact I have no idea how to unbind them.

When connected to BetaFlight does it show the rx working?

I assume you have the channels set correctly in BF? They are listed on receiver tab - Channel map.  I think on the receiver tab the little quad model should show what should happen when the tx sticks are moved. i.e. PROPS OFF connect to BF and see if the quad model on the receiver tab moves correctly when you move the stick on tx in the correct direction?