Tricopter build thread

[Biffa]

I was asked by a member of another forum to kind of put together how I went about my tricopter build so thought I would port it over here too just in case it';s of use to anyone.

As requested just a few pics of my tricopter build for those that may be interested in bodging building one. While not the best engineered flying machine in the world, it does it';s job as the video proves. There are many ways to cut and shut a Flame Wheel type 450 quad frame but as I had spare plates I made use of them and after getting a cutting disc for the Dremel, some parts from Hobby King and some screws and nuts I set about the build.

Obviously being a tri it only uses 3 arms so part of the challenge is in the layout. I decided to keep things as simple as possible and kept the two arms at the front of the frame mounted as they would be normally.



The rear arm was a little trickier and required a nominal amount of thought and this was where the spare plates came in handy. I decided to drill two holes in the very end of the lower plate for the bottom screws as this would then dictate the shape and position I needed for the extra piece of the upper plate. You can see I misjudged one of the holes so will have to use the same button head screws as I have on the top. The old saying "Measure twice cut once" springs to mind



With the rear arm in position on the lower plate I could then see how and where to cut the spare lower plate (which becomes part of the new upper plate) which is then held in place to the original upper plate with button head screws and nyloc nuts. As you can see I needed to drill a few holes in the piece of the cut plate but used the same screw layout for the arms. Corresponding holes were then drilled to mount the rear arm.





As the Flame Wheel is really designed for the LiPo to mount on top of the upper plate this would mean I would have to mount the KK2 board inside the frame which is obviously less than ideal as you need to see the screen and access the buttons. This meant I had to mount the board on the upper plate and the LiPo inside the frame so had to cut slots in the lower plate for the velcro strap. Luckily the power distribution tracks in the plate were unaffected and could still be used - bonus



KK board on top and LiPo tucked away inside. This also allows the pack to be moved a little fore and aft to adjust for COG.



The most challenging part of the home brew tricopter build is the yaw mechanism. I cannot take any credit for this as it is someone else';s design. It works very well indeed, has zero slop and requires only the use of cable ties to mount, so again super simple and cheap.





Instructions and parts needed for the yaw mechanics can be found HERE if you scroll down a little.

Easy peasy

[Gaza07]

Very nice build Steve thanks for posting 

[Biffa]

Cheers Gary.

I';ll post some more pics once I can start to tidy it up a little and treat it to some black arms and new props.

[Paul]

How';s it looking Steve?
Waiting for some screws and nuts to arrive. 
Can';t find my spare servo at the minute (and getting it centred, now that';ll be a challenge)
Need to order some motors but which ones?

[Biffa]

Looks good

I have A2208 7A 1200KV motors on mine. I got them from Giant Shark but they don';t seem to stock them anymore

[Gaza07]

Hi Propeller Fella and welcome to the forum, your tricopter looks like its coming along nicely 

How';s it looking Steve?
Waiting for some screws and nuts to arrive. 
Can';t find my spare servo at the minute (and getting it centred, now that';ll be a challenge)
Need to order some motors but which ones?

[Paul]

Just been offered 4 new Turnigy 2836 1000kv motors for £20 what do you think? Would they be any good?

[Paul]

Hi Propeller Fella and welcome to the forum, your tricopter looks like its coming along nicely 

Thanks Gaza07.
Just finished a Hobbyking fibreglass tri and had the f450 frame, so in for a penny.

[Gaza07]

It would be rather nice to see some pics / video of the fibreglass tri   

[Paul]

[Gaza07]

That makes me tempted to make a tri they look great 

[Biffa]

Just been offered 4 new Turnigy 2836 1000kv motors for £20 what do you think? Would they be any good?

These ones?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18969__Turnigy_D2836_8_1100KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

Looks like they will have plenty of power

Maybe too much

[Paul]

There is one for sale on fleabay £225. + £15.95

[Paul]

These ones?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18969__Turnigy_D2836_8_1100KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html

Looks like they will have plenty of power

Maybe too much

No not those.

These:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31168

Looks like the shafts are the wrong way round though.

[Biffa]

Yeah those don';t mount on the bottom.

[Paul]

OK spent some time on HK, looking for uk warehouse in stock motors.

[Paul]

Think I';ll go for these

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=28435

[Biffa]

Should be good on a 10 inch prop

[Paul]

My screw supplier has let me down. Where is the best place to get button head screws from, I need various sizes inc
M2, M2.5 M3 and M5 plus locknuts for my tri and another project.

[Biffa]

Hi Paul, I use this seller on Ebay:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Kays-Fasteners?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

[Paul]

Thanks for that Steve.

These are the props i am looking at to go with the 2836/9 950kv motors http://quadcopters.co.uk/10x45-pair-of-propellers-epp-327-p.asp what do you think?

[Biffa]

Should be OK to get you going

Just be sure to balance them well. The El Cheapo ones I got from Hobbyking are horrendous, and very flexible - but OK for a hack.

[Paul]

What prop would you suggest, as they say buy cheap buy twice.

[teslahed]

The RCtimer fully carbon props are very good quality for the price;

http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=799&productname=

The giantshark plastic props are much cheaper and better than any other cheap plastic props i';ve tried using;

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/pair-1045r-slow-counter-noncounter-rotating-props-p-406234.html

I started with the giantshark ones then bought the carbon fibre rctimer ones after i';d practiced a bit and wasn';t crashing so often.

Just don';t make the mistake of buying the rctimer plastic or ';carbon reinforced'; props. They are total rubbish.

[Paul]

First fix of rear motor mount assembly, I decided to screw it on.

[Biffa]

It';s quite nifty when it all goes together

[Paul]

Motors and screws (arriving tomorrow I hope) and still not sure on what props to get.

[Paul]

Almost complete, still looking for blades.

Gave it a quick try with some 8x4.5 blades but all it would do it tip over and destroy the blades, not sure what';s going on as my other tri lifted off and hovered without any problems.

[Biffa]

Looks good.

As for it flipping, do you have the right props on the right arms, correct motor rotation, channels reversed etc?

[Paul]

Steve
Props (8x4.5 just for test) fitted on correct arms, have ordered some 10x4.5 from Giantshark.
Motors rotating as per kk2.0 board diagram L/H and Rear CW and R/H CCW
Servo channel (4) was reversed on the initial standard setup.
Servo (Savox) set to high.
PI';s the same as your post elsewhere on this forum.
All motors appear to be starting at the same time.
All three ESC (Plush 25A) get pretty warm very quickly, put my programming card on and every light is on including the connecting light, tried it on the other tri and it does the same, so must be card failure.

Have now factory reset and run through setup again all seem OK, but can';t try flight as I have no blades left.