Noob 1st build - X210 V+

[TheJackal]

Hi, I';m new to the forum, and though I would start a build thread for my quad build.

Frame - Banggood X210 V+
Motors - Racerstar BR2205S
ESC - Spedix ES25
PDB - Matek FCHUB - 6S
FC - Matek F405 OSD
TX - i6S    RX - iA6C
Goggles - EV800
VTX - FT48X
Camera - Runcam Swift 2

Tonight I made a start attaching the motors (with threadlock) and soldering the ESCs ready for attaching.
As I bought the matching PDB for the FC I used the included one with the frame for a bit of soldering practice, as I have only soldered the odd wire and battery terminal before.







web img


Feel free to chip in with any advice, gotchas or questions.

[Cheredanine]

Hi, welcome :)

Couple of bits:
1 recomend soft mounting the flight controller, you can get rubber standoffs for this, it will help
2. What have you connected to the 12v supply? very thick wires, it isn';t an esc is it?

[TheJackal]

Hi, yes the Matek comes supplied with soft mounts already.
lol and that PDB was the one that came with the frame I used as a test before the real thing as I have never soldered a PDB before. I have the Matek PDB to match with the FC using their ribbon system.
So those wires are just scraps for practice.

[Cheredanine]

Ok I was sent a test sample of that fc and pdb with the ribbon

I have to say watch the ribbon connector, it is held in place by a plastic lock, it doesn';t cope well with being unlocked and relocked. Would suggest you try and avoid do this as much as possible (mine gave way well before the tenth time and whilst I jury rigged it for a bit, it didn';t last very long at all

[TheJackal]

A small update.
Motors soldered and PDB tinned.





high quality image upload

[TheJackal]

Got one of the big jobs out of the way, soldering all the escs to the FC.
I have placed some foam tape under each esc and plan to place some on top before taping round it. Is this an ok way to secure them?
Next is to tin the FC pins and attach that fiddly ribbon and my ex.
Then hopefully I can do some configuring before my vtx turns up.


how to get url for picture

[Cheredanine]

No the a big fan of holding the esc in place with tape but no particular reason for it, many plots do it. I wouldn';t put foam tape on top though. Esc needs to dissipate heat.

Points when mounting escs in the arms:
1 must make sure esc can not short to arm. Generally heat shrink will do this but pre shrunk escs have pads exposed, I always remove the pre shrunk heatshrink, then solder the escs, then add my own heat shrink which is longer and covers the whole esc. You are mitigating this with your tape under the esc so that';s cool
2. Esc must be able to dissipate heat - anything insulating it interferes with this, it is necessary to a degree but go overboard and you risk the esc overheating

There are other minor consideration like protecting from the props, being able to work on/re solder escs, not having the wires too tight etc
My general approach is new and longer heat shrink and attach to arms with zip ties

[TheJackal]

My thinking was vibration and protection with the foam.
I may desolder the motors then and replace with a single longer piece of heatshrink.
Is a cable tie on top then enough to protect the esc?

[Cheredanine]

Escs have no gyro, they are largely immune to vibration

Putting foam or rubber between them and the arms isn';t a bad idea, prevents physical wear if the heat shrink isn';t thick enough, but no need for foam tape on top

[atomiclama]

You have some protection with the heatshrink.

Just zip tir or tape it you will be fine.

You can';t protect against all possible damage. It will get broken at some point.

[atomiclama]

Is a cable tie on top then enough to protect the esc?

That';s just to stop it flapping around in the wind.

[Cheredanine]

Agree with llama, you will see some people cut up old prop blades and stick them on top of the esc, but that is gonna keep heat in and frankly i don';t think it would have have made a difference to me

[TheJackal]

Got the ribbon attached and FC mounted.
Then the receiver and LEDs were soldered to the board and everything checked over with a multimeter. I had already plugged in the FC to my PC and checked it was working when I received it.
Then plugged everything into the pc and did the final configuration and checks. Turned off sdcard_dma,set TX travel, Set loops to 16khz/8khz, raised the throttle idle percentage, set DSHOT600, checked the motors and direction in BLHeli Config...phew
I made a smoke stopper from a fuse and plugged in the lipo and nothing blew up. The motors span fine, LEDs lit up and I breathed a sigh of relief.
Just waiting for the vtx, then work out how to squeeze in and fix it with the receiver.
I can thoroughly recommend this FC and PDB combo, very easy to put together and neat.

[JoeB]

I gave up on a build with this frame as I couldn';t fit a x4r (case removed) and a unify pro in there. Would be interesting to see how you go with this, then I shall copy 😎😎

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[TheJackal]

Yeah I';m kind of planning to strap the FT48X vtx to the rear underside of the top plate and the IA6C RX to the top of the stack or under the vtx.
If that is too tight I will remove the cardboard cover and shrink wrap the RX for a couple of millimetres.
I';m using a Turnigy i6S, is there a smaller IBUS RX I could use with it?

[ched]

Yeah I';m kind of planning to strap the FT48X vtx to the rear underside of the top plate and the IA6C RX to the top of the stack or under the vtx.
If that is too tight I will remove the cardboard cover and shrink wrap the RX for a couple of millimetres.
I';m using a Turnigy i6S, is there a smaller IBUS RX I could use with it?

I am planning on using the x6b rx. It even mounts on the stack with 30.5mm centre holes and has 2 antenna. Plus it has voltage telemetry built in so with 10ch FW on i6 you can get voltage alarms on tx.

[TheJackal]

I just strapped the RX in and held the antenna out of the way for a test hover. I';d done as many checks as I could, failsafe, prop and motor direction etc and held my breath.



how to upload a picture to the internet

I found it drifted ever so slightly to the left a bit and yawed one way slightly. I';m not sure if that is a PIDs thing or not, but I will monitor that again when I do a proper test in a more open space with a bit more height.
Here is a short video with the blackbox details overlaid. I';m not sure how to embed it yet.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/HrhAvdZ2E2o

[hippy1970]

I just strapped the RX in and held the antenna out of the way for a test hover. I';d done as many checks as I could, failsafe, prop and motor direction etc and held my breath.



how to upload a picture to the internet

I found it drifted ever so slightly to the left a bit and yawed one way slightly. I';m not sure if that is a PIDs thing or not, but I will monitor that again when I do a proper test in a more open space with a bit more height.
Here is a short video with the blackbox details overlaid. I';m not sure how to embed it yet.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/HrhAvdZ2E2o

Looks good. First time I';ve seen black box data like that. I';m impressed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ched]

Looks great well done. PIDs generally don';t make it drift, although they could but I would be surprised. I would check the logs and see if there are any nasty vibrations getting to the FC. I assume the model in CF/BF looked level and was not rotating on its own on the bench?

Good first hover.