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3d - Printworx

Printing 3d Forum

450 KK2.0 quad build, Step by step.

Started by rokit5, Thursday,January 24, 2013, 06:20:19

Previous topic - Next topic

rokit5

Thursday,January 24, 2013, 06:20:19 Last Edit: Thursday,January 24, 2013, 20:42:31 by rokit5
KK2.0 450 quad build.

This step by step guide is hopefully going to take the pain out of waiting for answers to your questions and aid your first quad build.  :crossfingers:
This would be my first quad build so I';m no more advanced than you.

Tools I used:
.Allen keys.
.Soldering iron. (you shouldn';t need any more than a 45W iron, a hotter iron may damage the v2 distribution board.
.Gas torch, for the heat shrink.
.Thread lock.
.Wire cutter/side cutters.
.Double sided foam tape, for mounting the FCB and Rx.
.Prop balancer.
.Insulating tape, for balancing the props.
.Velcro.
.Cable ties.


Here are a list of parts I used and some handy links for where I bought them from.

http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goods_details.dwt&goodsid=786&productname=

.RM 450 V2 Frame. (Same as f450 DJI frame)
.RCTimer 2830-1000KV brushless motor x4.
.SimonK ESC 30A X4.
.10x4.5 (1045) Carbon Reinforced Forward & Reverse propeller X4. (2Pairs)

Cost: $114.99 (£72.51) Exchange rate may differ but only by a few pounds.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.asp

.KK2.0 flight control board
.UASBasp programmer board (used for updating the KK2.0 firmware to V1.5) See this thread for a step by step guide:
.20cm male to male (jr) servo leads.
.Nylon XT90 connectors (you may preffer to use a different connector)
.Polymax 3.5mm gold connectors for ESCs.
.heat shrink tube, RED and BLACK.

Cost: $48.50 (£41.58 including an additional £10 for any other items or P&P)

Total cost of build: £114.09, not including Radio gear or lipos/charger.

I used my Spektrum DX6i with a Spektrum AR6210 Rx and Turnigy Nano-tech 3S 2200mAh Lipo.



Before starting check you have all the bits you need to complete the build


.Attach all motors to frame arms, using a small amount of thread lock on the screws to stop them comming lose and prop collets to shafts. (I';ve trimmed my shafts down to allow the collet to fit closer  to the motors outrunner housing)
.Solder 3.5mm female banana connectors to motor wires of ESC and cover with heat shrink, (Ensure all wires are soldered correctly by tugging on them once the connector has cooled sown and the solder has solidified.)



I went with the 450 v2 frame because the bottom frame board is also a power distribution board so no need for a ESC/battery loom.

.Start bolting on the frame arms.
(I didn';t use threadlock on the screws because the thread in the frame arm is a brass insert and you';ll never get them    off again should you need to replacing.)




.Calibrate the ESCs one at a time using the steps below.

1. Solder an XT90 connector onto the power leads of the ESC and plug the ESC into the throttle channel of your Rx.
2. Switch the Tx ON and push the throttle stick fully forward, (maximum throttle.)
3. Plug any of your motors into the ESC, (at this point it does';t matter what wire goes where.)
4. Plug the Lipo into the ESC and the ESC should make a single bleep.
5. Pull the throttle stock back full, (no throttle) and the ESC should make three multi tone bleeps.
6.Unplug the battery from the ESC.

.Repeat all 6 steps on each ESCs.

Chris has made a video if you would prefer to use that:




.Now you can start to cable tie the ESC to the frame arms.



If you have gone with the 450 v2 frame:
.start trimming the ESC power wires down to the correct length and solder them on the correct terminals on the  distribution board.
.Solder the battery harness onto the correct terminals of the distribution board.



.Attach a strip of velco down the centre of the bottom frame board for the battery.
(I';ve only put the battery on the bottom board because the KK2.0 FC board has the LCD screen so it won';t be visible, so  it has to be mounted on the top board. If your using any other FC board then you may want to mount it on the bottom board  to help protect it.)
.Bolt the top frame board on.



KK2.0 Flight control board mount:
I';ve used a 1.5mm aluminium plate to bolt my FC board to so I can used double sided foam tape to stick it to the top frame board. (Some bolt it direct to the frame board but I will be using foam tape to help reduce any vibration effecting the gyros.)

.Cut plate to size and scribe your hole markings for FC board. pic 2..
(note from Pic 1. that the holes are 45mm centre to centre.)
.I';m using nylon hardware to bolt the FC board to the plate. pic 3.
.Bolt FC board to plate using spacers allowing enough of a gap. pics 4. 5.
.Stick two layers of 2mm double sided foam tape to under side.



.Mount KK2.0 FC board to top frame board with the FC board pointing in the right direction. (arrow on the top right corner  pointing forward or buttons at the back/bottom.)
.Mount the Rx where ever you have space ensuring that the servo leads will reach.
.Connect the Rx servo leads: rudd to rudd, aile to aile and so on.
.Connect the ESCs to the FC board ensuring they are connected to the correct header. Top right headers from the top ESC1 through to ESC8 at the bottom.
.Ensure you have the correct motor layout selected. x or +
.   1}        {2 
        \    /         
          \/       
          /\
         /   \
     {4        3}     

.Follow the initial setup steps from the KK2.0 manual:
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=1208.0

.Balance your props.



.Once you have followed all the initial setup steps from the manual and double checking that your motors spin in the right direction its time to put your props on.
.Motors 1 and 3 should have Clock wise props and motors 2 and 4 should have Counter clock wise props.



Your all set and ready to go.

I have tried to make it as step by step as possible and also as easy as possible to follow. I';m sure I';ve covered everything but if you feel you can add to any of the steps, feel free.

Heres a short video of its first flight:



A little bit of tuning is needed I think.


"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

Gaza07


neagron

That is an excellent post rokit,it should help a lot of people,Marty. :scotland:

KK1W

Great post - I';m sending a friend of mine the link so I can suck him into this stuff too. Funny thing I sent him a ';suggested'; list last night that had both the KK and the RCT clone. He';ll think it';s a conspiracy :smiley:
Jim/KK1W

rokit5

Flies much better now the auto level is ON and a little tuning been done.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

rokit5

I posted this information on another thread: KK2.0 users manual.

Another thing i noticed in the menu system. Theirs no ESC calibration, may have been removed from the v1.5 firmware. If you haven';t flashed the firmware from the v1.4 it comes with the ESC calibration may still be in the menu system. However, You can still carry out a ESC calibration by following the steps below. You will need an extra pair of hands for this or as Gary pointed out you can also use 2 clothes pegs.

1.Switch your Tx ON and set the throttle to full/Max.
2.Hold down buttons 1 and 4 or use the clothes pegs.
3.Connect you quadcopter battery, the ESC should bleep once.
4.Follow the messages on screen until the ESC sound a multi tonal bleep.
5.Unplug your quadcopter battery.
6.Switch off you Tx.
CALIBRATION COMPLETE.

All motors should power up at the same time, if they don';t power up the same time select the "Misc settings" from the menu and adjust the "minimum throttle" up until they do. ( default is 10 I have mine set to 20.)
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

Biffa

Great thread ~~

I can';t believe how quiet it is :cool:
Steve

homersainty

Quote from: rokit5 on Friday,January 25, 2013, 18:57:35
I posted this information on another thread: KK2.0 users manual.

Another thing i noticed in the menu system. Theirs no ESC calibration, may have been removed from the v1.5 firmware. If you haven';t flashed the firmware from the v1.4 it comes with the ESC calibration may still be in the menu system. However, You can still carry out a ESC calibration by following the steps below. You will need an extra pair of hands for this or as Gary pointed out you can also use 2 clothes pegs.

1.Switch your Tx ON and set the throttle to full/Max.
2.Hold down buttons 1 and 4 or use the clothes pegs.
3.Connect you quadcopter battery, the ESC should bleep once.
4.Follow the messages on screen until the ESC sound a multi tonal bleep.
5.Unplug your quadcopter battery.
6.Switch off you Tx.
CALIBRATION COMPLETE.

All motors should power up at the same time, if they don';t power up the same time select the "Misc settings" from the menu and adjust the "minimum throttle" up until they do. ( default is 10 I have mine set to 20.)

beware if you try this on 1.5 i tried it (being dumb did not take props off and it bit me) :embarrassed tried again with props off this time she fired up again duno why but my call on 1.5 don';t seem to work just spins the motors up
If you find yourself in danger of being taken seriously, then try to do something which undermines or sabotages that perception in some way.

rokit5

Quote from: homersainty on Friday,January 25, 2013, 20:03:16
beware if you try this on 1.5 i tried it (being dumb did not take props off and it bit me) :embarrassed tried again with props off this time she fired up again duno why but my call on 1.5 don';t seem to work just spins the motors up


Did the steps with props on until i heard multi tonal bleep and then unplugged battery, either didn';t finish calibration or I got lucky.

After calibrating the ESC one at a time do you really need to do the KK ESC calibration?
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

benchmark

Nice build, is it possible to use the DJI opto 30A ESC with the kk2 board? these ESCs have no BEC right?

rokit5

Quote from: benchmark on Saturday,January 26, 2013, 22:02:40
Nice build, is it possible to use the DJI opto 30A ESC with the kk2 board? these ESCs have no BEC right?


The opto ESCs don';t have BECs so you would have to use a separate BEC. ESC1 is the header that powers the board, you could change the M1 header to M8 or just use a "Y" servo lead that should do it, leaving the white wire socket empty.
As far as i know you can also power the KK2 through the Rx so you can also plug your BEC into your BATT socket of your Rx.
Find more information in the KK2.0 manual:
http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=1208.0

I hope this helps.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

XH558

Quote from: rokit5 on Thursday,January 24, 2013, 20:01:05
Flies much better now the auto level is ON and a little tuning been done.


What are your P & I settings for Pitch/Roll/Yaw/Throttle and the Self Level settings ??

Just so I can see how they relate to my Quad with KK2  ;)

rokit5

Monday,January 28, 2013, 15:53:10 #12 Last Edit: Monday,January 28, 2013, 17:32:05 by rokit5
They could do with a tweak but works fine for me at the moment, whilst learning to fly it:
These are with the v1.5 firmware so if you still have v1.4 there may be some differences in the mode settings menu.

PI settings.

Roll + pitch:
P: gain: 45
P: Limit: 100
I: gain: 25
I: Limit: 20.

YAW.
P: gain: 60
P: Limit: 20
I: gain: 30
I: Limit: 10

Mode settings:
self level: AUX
Link roll and pitch: yes
Auto disarm: yes
CPPM enabled: no

Stick scalling:
Roll: 30
Pitch: 30
Yaw: 50
Throttle:90

Misc settings:
Minimum throttle: 20
Height dampning: 0
Height D limit: 30
Alarm: 0
Servo filter: 50

self leveling settings:
P gain: 60
P Limit: 60
ACC trim roll: 0
ACC trim pitch: 0

My PIs and stick scallings are quite low for that reason. A lot of people on chat say the scalings could go up a little to speed up responce. If your using your Ali and ply DIY frame it may differ, these are setting from the 450 frame config.
Give it a go and let me know. The KK is now on a tricopter and I';m rebuilding the 450 with a multiwii.

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

XH558

Thanks very much for typing all that  ~~ My settings were remarkably similar - so can';t have been far off factory settings as I factory reset mine when I started playing with the P & I numbers and got completely lost  :rolleyes: ;)

Iberian

Where can I buy double side foam tape?
Thanks


Iberian


rokit5

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

teslahed

Quote from: rokit5 on Tuesday,February 05, 2013, 17:15:43
I buy this, it';s 1.5mm think and quite firm:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300606745562?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
And it does the job.


Judging by the colour and the shape that';s exactly the same stuff i get in the pound shop. It works very well for me and if you don';t have a pound shop near you then i guess it';s still cheaper on ebay than most other places, so not a total rip off.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Iberian


kaivalagi

Well got my F450 all setup now after waiting far too long for ESCs, I  am half looking forward and half dreading the first proper test flight :)

There are a couple of things I did, which are not covered by this thread, which I figure might be worth a mention here for a single thorough guide to the "first quad setup".

1) KK 2.0 Self leveling through the AUX Channel 5

I am using a 9X type radio (9XR) and have got the latest version of ER9X firmware on it, and as a newbie to the whole scene it took a little while to grasp how to setup the 3 position switch for aux channel 5 to trigger self levelling on/off on KK2. I ended up creating a full -ve output for CH5 with ID0 switch, 0 on ID1 switch and +ve on ID2 switch, this is more than what is needed for self leveling on/off switch but may be useful for alternative setups later with failsafe or Multiwii/Naza/APM etc. The following is what I did in the ER9X menus :

  • Enter mixer step and long press menu on CH5

  • Set Source = FULL, weight = -125, Switch = ID0 then Exit

  • Long press Menu on the CH5 setting for ID0 you just made and select INSERT

  • Set Source = FULL, weight = 0, Switch = ID1 then Exit

  • Long press Menu on the CH5 setting for ID1 you just made and select INSERT

  • Set Source = FULL, weight = -125, Switch = ID2 then Exit


Now when the KK 2 is setup for AUX based self levelling when you throw the 3 way into full / ID2 position it will self level

2) Updated the firmware on the KK2 board to v1.5

The original firmware version on the self level mode was a little slow to respond which meant irratic newbie flying from me :) This was after some tuning of the PI settings, v1.5 seems far better....a proper test will tell though.

Now to getting flying (and fixing), I have dreams of grandure with an APM based Spider type setup but I need to be able to fly first!

Cheers

rokit5

Thanks for the ER9X additional info kaivalagi I';m sure it will help a lot of people as the original thread info was based on the DX6i Tx and the self level set up on the standard AUX settings.
The v1.5 firmware for the KK2.0 is much better but I have seen people raving about the earlier versions for there Explorer tricopters but it is possible to reflash with an older version if need bee using the KK flash tool fond here:
http://lazyzero.de/kkflashtool#download
How are you getting on with your 450?
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

FlyinMarty

Superb thread, just what a newbie planning their first build (me) needs ^-^
Blade Nano QX
Immersion Vortex 285
 Blade mCPx Heli

Wizz

Quote from: rokit5 on Monday,January 28, 2013, 15:53:10
They could do with a tweak but works fine for me at the moment, whilst learning to fly it:
These are with the v1.5 firmware so if you still have v1.4 there may be some differences in the mode settings menu.

PI settings.

Roll + pitch:
P: gain: 45
P: Limit: 100
I: gain: 25
I: Limit: 20.

YAW.
P: gain: 60
P: Limit: 20
I: gain: 30
I: Limit: 10

Mode settings:
self level: AUX
Link roll and pitch: yes
Auto disarm: yes
CPPM enabled: no

Stick scalling:
Roll: 30
Pitch: 30
Yaw: 50
Throttle:90

Misc settings:
Minimum throttle: 20
Height dampning: 0
Height D limit: 30
Alarm: 0
Servo filter: 50

self leveling settings:
P gain: 60
P Limit: 60
ACC trim roll: 0
ACC trim pitch: 0

My PIs and stick scallings are quite low for that reason. A lot of people on chat say the scalings could go up a little to speed up responce. If your using your Ali and ply DIY frame it may differ, these are setting from the 450 frame config.
Give it a go and let me know. The KK is now on a tricopter and I';m rebuilding the 450 with a multiwii.


Hi Rokit5 !

Thanks for an interesting post  :cool:

I';m a newbie and would like to ask you about your PI settings please.   I want to set up my Quad in X mode for smooth flying with a camera on board and don';t need any stunt ability on the Quad.

I';ve seen a lot of info which suggests the Yaw rates should match the Roll rates in the PI settings ? ? ?    I see yours are different so do you have any advice to offer on this please ?

Cheers  !       Eddie.   ( Wizz ).

rokit5

Sorry it took so long to reply buddy...I normally get promted by email if anyone has commented on a thread.
You have probably figured it out by now but I found just leaving the yaw PIs seems to the best option you could change stick scaling if you wanted to slow the response down to ensure the camera stays stable. I think there is some added perks on the new 1.6 firmware that may be helpful regarding gimbles but don';t quote me on that.
Let me know if you still need help with things and I';ll try and respond quicker...
Work is a bit full on this time of year so if you want a quicker response pop into chat and I';m sure there will be all kinds of folk loitering that can assist.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"

mat27777777

Hi Rokit. Not sure if your still checking this thread or not, but I have a question on your build.

I';ve just built nearly the indentical setup to this, give or take a few difference with the motor/esc/prop brands.  I have the DJI F450 Kit and have put a new KK2.1 board on it.

My main question is how have you secured your battery in the bottom tray? I currently have velcro stuck to the board which will stop the battery sliding around but it still wobbles side to side and i';d like to strap it down tight, but there are no slots or anything to use with the battery running long ways.

Well thanks if you can help at all.

Mat.

dyls

As well as using the strap put a bit of hoops on the 450 frame and a bit of fluffy on your battery.
This should keep it all nice a tight.
Stay safe
Dyl

ZMR250+Naze-acro,Turnigy 9x, (FPV) Phil built (FLYAWAY)
550      +APM         ,    "-"       ,   "-"   Peter built
X525(Cut to 400)+KK2+Futaba 6EX (Crashed)

jimbo385

This is a great thread and has helped me out!

I thought that I';d post my KK2.0 settings.

[attachimg=1]

Thought that I';d out it in a spreadsheet so that I could save all changes.

Cheers.
F450 Clone KK2.0 General Batting around!

FPV550 KK2.0 FPV No gear on it yet!

DJI F350 Naza Lite Naza Experience

FPV 250 With RCTimer Power kit. Pocket Rocket!

Wishlist - Tarot FY680 Pro

dyls

Quote from: jimbo385 on Wednesday,January 08, 2014, 10:44:46
This is a great thread and has helped me out!

I thought that I';d post my KK2.0 settings.

[attachimg=1]

Thought that I';d out it in a spreadsheet so that I could save all changes.

Cheers.


What is this KK2 in.
I want to know everything.
Frame, motors, esc, battery etc.

Thanks
Stay safe
Dyl

ZMR250+Naze-acro,Turnigy 9x, (FPV) Phil built (FLYAWAY)
550      +APM         ,    "-"       ,   "-"   Peter built
X525(Cut to 400)+KK2+Futaba 6EX (Crashed)

jimbo385

Ha, everything!

Here goes then.

F450 dji cloned quad from china
KK2.0 With 1.6++ R2 firmware
Emax 2213 935kv motor
Quatro 4x20a ESC
Gemfan 9x4.7 props
Turnigy 3in1 Hrli 5A Ubec
Overlander Extreme 60c 2200mah 3s lipo

That';s about it!
F450 Clone KK2.0 General Batting around!

FPV550 KK2.0 FPV No gear on it yet!

DJI F350 Naza Lite Naza Experience

FPV 250 With RCTimer Power kit. Pocket Rocket!

Wishlist - Tarot FY680 Pro