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04 Jun 2020 17:27:04
Hello Six6siX
03 Jun 2020 13:28:30
ooo... hello all
02 Jun 2020 22:09:18
TBS Source One frame with 7" arms
02 Jun 2020 22:09:02
my guess was bang on the number - just out on the units!
02 Jun 2020 21:48:33
Just a bit out from your initial guess then  :laugh: What kind of frame do you fly with?
02 Jun 2020 18:52:22
shoutbox doesn't like ampersands for some reason
02 Jun 2020 18:51:54
and it was more like a 100m fall  :o
02 Jun 2020 18:50:36
lol - checked my logging
02 Jun 2020 11:52:29
@Liam - no, absolutely fine.  had another couple of flights with it afterwards -  :laugh:
01 Jun 2020 21:23:22
Ouch! Any breakages?
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Printing 3d Forum

KK2.0 Flight control board. User Manual.

Started by rokit5, Thursday,January 24, 2013, 04:20:29

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Thursday,January 24, 2013, 04:20:29 Last Edit: Thursday,February 28, 2013, 20:10:04 by rokit5
Having bought a Hobbyking KK2.0 FC board for my first quad build, I';m finding the HK KK2.0 manual very handy.
Heres the manual including a PI tuning video that may come in handy.

Initial Setup:
-Mount the FC on the frame with the LCD facing front and the buttons facing back.
-Connect the receiver to the pins on the left side. The negative (black or brown) lead towards the edge
of the FC. The order is, from front to back: Aileron, Elevator, Throttle, Rudder and AUX.
Connect AUX to a switched channel on your transmitter.
-Connect the motors and servos to the pins on the right side. M1 is the front one and M8 is the back
one. The negative (black or brown) lead towards the edge of the FC.
See below for how to find out which motor goes where.
The M1 connector must always have a ESC connected, because this ESC will be the only one that
supplies the FC with 5V power. This ensures stable power to the FC.
The M2 to M8';s 5V power pin is connected together, and any servos here will be supplied by any ESC';s
connected here. There is not necessary to cut the 5V (red) lead on any ESC unless it has a Switching
With many servos, for example airplane stabilization, there may be necessary with an extra BEC. Do
not use multiple switched BEC';s
-Set up a new model on your transmitter, Use a normal airplane profile.
-Turn on the power and press the menu button and enter the "Receiver Test" sub-menu.
Move each channel on your transmitter and check that the displayed direction corespondents with
the stick movements. If they disagree, reverse the channel on your transmitter.
Check that the AUX channel show "ON" when the switch on your transmitter is in your preferred on
position. If not, reverse the AUX channel on your transmitter.
-Use the trims or sub-trims and adjust the channel values shown on the LCD to zero.
-Enter the "Load Motor Layout" sub-menu and choose the configuration you want. If the configuration
you want is not listed, use the "Mixer Editor" sub-menu to make one. More on that later.
-Enter the "Show Motor Layout" sub-menu and confirm the following. Is the configuration correct? Is
the motors and servos connected the the correct output? Correct rotation direction? Does the motor
speed up when dropping the arm it is mounted on?
-Enter the "PI Editor " sub-menu and check for correct PI gain values. Use known good values or the
default ones.
-Now you can mount the propellers and test it. Arm it by give right rudder and zero throttle for a few
seconds. It will beep and the LED will turn on. Do not arm it until you have put the multicopter on the
ground and stepped away 5 meters.
Safe it after landing by holding the rudder to left with zero throttle. It will beep and the LED will turn
off. Do it before you approach the multicopter.
If it wants to tip over right away, check your connections and your custom made mixer table if you
have one
If it shakes and maybe climbs after its airborne, adjust the Roll and Pitch Pgain down.
if it easily tips over after its airborne, adjust up.
If it drifts away, use the trims to keep the drift down. It will normally drift away with the wind. If you
need excessive trim, check if the arms and motors have the correct angles and that the motors are
Increase the Roll and Pitch I gain (note the difference from P gain) until it flies straight forward without
pitching up or down.
Turn on the Self-leveling by holding right aileron while arming or disarming it. Turn it off by holding
left aileron. Alternatively you can assign this to the AUX channel. See below.
Sub-menu descriptions.

"PI Editor":
Adjust the PI gain settings here. Use the PREV and NEXT buttons to highlight the parameter you want
to change, then press the CHANGE button. To adjust both Roll and Pitch at the same time, see the
"Mode Settings "sub-menu.

"Receiver test":
To check output from the receiver.

"Mode Settings":
-"Self Level" item: How the self-leveling function will be controlled:
--"stick": Turn on Self-leveling by holding the aileron to the right when arming or disarming. Turn it of
with left aileron.
--"AUX": AUX switch channel controls the self-leveling function.
-"I part of PI" item: How the heading-hold function will be controlled:
--"On": Always on.
--"AUX": AUX switch channel controls the heading-hold function.
-"Arming" item: How the heading-hold function will be controlled:
--"Stick": Arm with right rudder and zero throttle. Disarm with left rudder and zero throttle.
--"On": Always on. Careful with this one. Use it only when the FC does not control any motors, e.g.
when using it for airplane stabilization.

-"Link Roll Pitch" item:
--"On": Edit the Roll and Pitch gain parameters together.
--"Off": Edit the Roll and Pitch gain parameters separately. Use it when the multicopter has different
inertial mass on the different axis.

"Stick Scaling":
Here you can adjust the response from the stick to your liking. Higher number gives higher response.
Similar to the endpoint or volume adjustment on your transmitter. You can also adjust your
transmitter to adjust the stick response and use the stick scaling if you want even more response.

"Misc. Settings":
-"Minimum Throttle" item: Adjust just high enough to keep all the motors running when the throttle is
above zero.
-"LCD Contrast" item: Adjust the LCD contrast.

"Self-level Settings":
-"Self-level Gain" item: The power of the self-leveling. Higher number is stronger.
-"Self-level Limit" item: Limits the max power of self leveling. Higher number is higher limit.

"Sensor Test":
Displays the output from the sensors. See if all shows "OK". Move the FC around and see that the
numbers change.

"Sensor Calibration":
Follow the instructions on the LCD. The calibration is only necessary to do once per initial setup.

"Esc Calibration":
2: Turn off the FC power.
3: Turn on the transmitter and set the throttle to max.
4: Press down button 1 and 4, keep pressing until last step. Releasing the buttons aborts the
5: Turn on power to the FC
6: Wait for the ESC to beep its full throttle calibrated signal. Takes a few seconds, depends on the ESC.
7: Lower the throttle to idle.
8: Wait for the idle throttle calibrated signal.
9: Release the buttons.

"Mixer Editor":
This menu lets you adjust where and how much signal the motors gets from the sticks and sensors.
This makes you able to make any configuration possible, with up to 8 motors or servos.
To change between the output channels 1-8, press CHANGE when the upper right number is
-"Throttle" item: Amount of throttle command. Usually 100% if the output channel is connected to a
-"Aileron" item: Amount of aileron/roll command. Use positive value for motors on the right side of
the roll axis, and negative for the left side of the roll axis. The value is given by the motor';s distance
from the roll axis. More is further away
-"Elevator" item: Amount of elevator/pitch command. Use positive value for motors on the front side
of the pitch axis, and negative for the back side of the pitch axis. The value is given by the motor';s
distance from the pitch axis. More is further away.
-"Rudder" item: Amount of rudder/yaw command. Usually 100%. Use a positive value for a CW
spinning propeller, and negative for a CCW spinning propeller.
-"Offset" Item: Applies a constant offset to the channel. Keep this zero when it is a ESC channel, and
around 50% when connected to a servo. Fine tune servo position by adjusting this value.
-"Type:" Item: Set it to the type (servo or ESC) connected to the channel.
--For ESC: Output PWM rate is always high. Outputs zero when disarmed or throttle is at idle. Applies
the "Minimum Throttle" item from the "Misc. Settings" sub-menu when armed and throttle is above
--for Servo: Output PWM rate can be high or low. Outputs the offset value when disarmed or throttle
is at idle.
-"Rate":High rate (400Hz) for ESC or digital servos, or low rate (80Hz) for analog servos.

"Show Motor Layout":
Shows the configuration graphically. Use to check your build and/or your custom mixer table.

"Load Motor Layout":
Loads one of many fixed configurations. The loaded configuration can be modified afterwards.

1: Make sure the KK2 reads the transmitter stick neutrals. Go to the "Receiver Test" menu and use the
  trims to get the values to zero.
2: Go to the "PI Editor" menu and set P to 150 and I to zero for both the Roll and Pitch Axis. It is only
  necessary to edit the roll axis, pitch axis will be automatically changed to the same values as the roll
  Leave the P-limit and I-limit alone, it is seldom necessary to change them.
3: Hover the aircraft and compare the response to the multicopter in this video:
  ( beware of the chicken! )
4: adjust accordingly to the response.
  If you are newbie and does not fly around yet, just leave the I-gain at zero or the default value.
  Also the Yaw PI-gains can be left at default, but remember to zero them if you use the string tuning

Default PI editor settings
Roll/Pitch Axis:
Pgain = 150
Plimit = 100
Igain = 50
Ilimit = 20
Yaw Axis:
Pgain = 150
Plimit = 20
Igain = 50
Ilimit = 10

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"



something that can actually be really handy too (ask me how I know!) is, if you don';t have access to a manual, and are wiring up the board and are not sure which plug goes where, or which pin is negative and which is signal, turn the board over, the channels are marked on the underneath and if you follow the copper trace, you can track down -ve too :)
Growing old is mandatory...Growing up is optional

FPV Guru
BNUC-S qualified


Cheers Roka5. I';ve got one on order from HK. In sure this will come I handy.


Quote from: Balders on Thursday,January 24, 2013, 09:45:50
something that can actually be really handy too (ask me how I know!) is, if you don';t have access to a manual, and are wiring up the board and are not sure which plug goes where, or which pin is negative and which is signal, turn the board over, the channels are marked on the underneath and if you follow the copper trace, you can track down -ve too :)

I noticed that , and the outside rails are ground (black)
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"


Another thing i noticed in the menu system. Theirs no ESC calibration, may have been removed from the v1.5 firmware. If you haven';t flashed the firmware from the v1.4 it comes with the ESC calibration may still be in the menu system. However, You can still carry out a ESC calibration by following the steps below. You will need an extra pair of hands for this or as Gary pointed out you can also use 2 clothes pegs.

1.Switch your Tx ON and set the throttle to full/Max.
2.Hold down buttons 1 and 4 or use the clothes pegs.
3.Connect you quadcopter battery, the ESC should bleep once.
4.Follow the messages on screen until the ESC sound a multi tonal bleep.
5.Unplug your quadcopter battery.
6.Switch off you Tx.

All motors should power up at the same time, if they don';t power up the same time select the "Misc settings" from the menu and adjust the "minimum throttle" up until they do. ( default is 10 I have mine set to 20.)

"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"


If you were not aware most flight control boards will require you to disconnect the red (+) lead from the ESC plugs to prevent over powering the board and causing damage.
The KK2 board doesn';t require you to disconnect any wires so you can just plug all 8 ESCs straight into the KK2 board.
Just a quick point regarding the KK2 flight controllers ESC and servo configuration in tricopter, dual copter mode.
If you use ESCs that have the red (+) wires removed the servos do not respond.
M1 powers the board but M2 and M3 for tricopters or M2 for dual copter power the servos...Digital servos are recommended.
If you use analogue servos make sure you set the servo rate to low in the mixer menu, Digital servos should be set to high.
"If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you"