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Only if the battery is fully charged, leak a few volts and it'll be fine.......
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If yo fly a Mavic Mini and get over a gramme of mud on it, do you have to register it?  :rofl:
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Forums very quiet  :shrug:
ched:
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Sounds good yama. Would love to see some images. 3d models sound cool too
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3d - Printworx

Printing 3d Forum

Sporran Quad Frame Build (Old Version)

Started by Gaza07, Wednesday,June 20, 2012, 11:55:09

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Gaza07

Wednesday,June 20, 2012, 11:55:09 Last Edit: Tuesday,July 24, 2012, 09:55:24 by Gaza07
I have put a new Quadframes Sporran together but fitted extended arms here are a few pics of the build,
The arms that come with the kit are 195mm long so I made some new arms that are 285mm long,

[attach=1]

A few of the parts from the kit first job is to fit the plastic male to female spacers using 3mm cheese head screws
you do the same to both main frame plates

[attach=2]

[attach=3]


Next we need to make the motor mounts up by inserting 2 x 3mm x 16mm cap head screws through the top of the motor mount
as shown, and then slide the 10mm spacers over the top of the screws

[attach=4]

[attach=5]

[attach=6]

Then fit the bottom motor plate over the spacers and screws and fit the 3mm nuts, you can now tighten these,
Fit 4 x 3mm x 16mm cap head screws through the other 4 holes from the top and fit the nuts but leave these loose for now


[attach=7]

Next slide the assembled motor mount over one of the arms at the end with no holes making sure the holes at the other end remain vertical to be able to fit the arm to the frame later


[attach=8]


[attach=9]

Slide the motor mount onto the arm untill the arm is level with the end of the slot as shown above

[attach=10]

Once in place you can tighten the 3mm nuts to lock the motor mount in place, it would be a ood idea to use blue thread lock on the nuts to prevent them coming loose due to vibrations

[attach=11]

You can now fit the motors of your choise to the motor mounts, I used 3mm metal washers on the motor mounting screws to make sure they didn't foul the motor inside

[attach=12]

You could fit the motors after you have built the frame if you wanted to but I chose to do this before as its easier to handle

[attach=13]

Once your happy your motor is siting in the center you can tighten the 3mm screws locking the motors in place

[attach=14]

I decided to also fit my esc,s at this point they are Rctimer 20a re flashed with the SimonK firmware

[attach=15]

Do the same for all 4 arms

[attach=16]

I added the heli undercarriage to the kit my self as I did with my previous sporran build

[attach=17]

The U/C is held on with a single 3mm cap head screw through the center of each leg

[attach=18]


[attach=19]

The arms line up with the holes and cheese head screw as shown above

[attach=20]

To be continued........

Gaza07

Wednesday,June 20, 2012, 12:18:50 #1 Last Edit: Tuesday,July 24, 2012, 10:05:47 by Gaza07
Once in place fit 2 x 3mm x 16mm cap head screws from the top with 3mm nuts underneath

[attach=1]

[attach=2]

Do the same for all 4 arms and then go round and tighten them all up

[attach=3]

I decided to use a 25 capacity cd spindle to house the flight controller and rx

[attach=4]

I cut off the spindle and drilled 4 holes for 3mm screws to fit the male to female spacers

[attach=5]

[attach=6]

This is held in place with 4 of the same spacers

[attach=7]

[attach=8]

I have shown a paris v3 multi wii fitted but I will be fitting a Rabbit F/C to this when it comes

[attach=9]





Here's the last few pics from the build

I made the wiring harness below some time ago before I had any distribution boards, it just connects all 4 esc,s in between the main frame plates

[attach=10]

Battery plate fitted and held in place with 3mm nuts

[attach=11]

I stuck a strip of velcro to the battery plate to hold the battery as well as using a strap

[attach=12]

The standard size sporran and the one I have built with the longer arms

[attach=13]

[attach=14]

[attach=15]

Paris v3 Pro mini Multiwii F/C this has only been fitted to test things out, I will be fitting a Rabbit F/C when it arrives



I find the cheap Orange Rx,s work fine for multirotors as I never really let them get that far away

[attach=16]

Battery held in with velcro strip on battery tray and strap

[attach=17]

I have made this little bracket to hold the sonar module as this will be fitted once the Rabbit arrives



Here's the initial test flight with multiwii v2 and default settings, the auto level (nunchuck) was a bit off so I had to hold it level best i could, it seems to have bags of power with those little rctimer motors and nothing even got warm during the flight




I noticed a problem with the quad after flying it a few times that the auto level (nunchuck) would loose its setting and the quad would want to fly away in different directions, I checked the multiwii forum and sure enough there is a problem with multiwii v2 and the nunchuck exactly what I was seeing, so I changed
the firmware to multiwii v1.9 and below is the test flight with this firmware






Update for this frame I have now fitted the Rabbit F/C with sonar will get a video of the test flight soon as pos

[attach=18]

[attach=19]


here's the first video of the Sporran with the Rabbit F/C with sonar and stable enabled





Please Note this frame has been changed by the supplier since I built it Please check his web site for details


teslahed

The new changes to the design are quite significant in my opinion - before the aluminium arms were attached to the central plate via 2 bolts that went through the centre plates and through each arm to fix them in position. The new system uses 4 bolts (2 on either side) of each aluminium arm to clamp the arm in place by applying pressure on the arms sideways via the bolts either side and from above and below via the top and bottom plates - similar to how the motor mounts clamp to the other end of each arm.

The other significant difference is that the aluminium arms do not go all the way to the centre of the centre plates. With the old design the aluminium arms extend from the edge of each centre plate to the centre hole for maximum overlap and strength, but with the new design the 4 bolts that hold each quad arm in position to the centre plate stop half way to the centre so there is half as much overlap between aluminium and fibreglass as before.

The motor to motor distance is also now a fair bit bigger than 330mm, worth knowing if like me you would want to order the motors before the frame arrives.

I think the new design is better for anyone wanting to be able to quickly put together and dismantle their quadcopter and definitely better for anyone who wants to be able to quickly and easily replace the arms without having to drill new holes themselves (which i have found to be quite tricky to do neatly). It's also better for anyone wanting a stable quadcopter because, as Gaza07 has found, longer arms seem to result in a more stable design.

I think the new design is less good for anyone looking for maximum strength and rigidity. With the new style arms clamped in position i can use my hands to wobble them a little from side to side which i don't think would be achievable with bolts through holes in the aluminium and i am personally convinced that the quadcopter will be weaker as a result of halving the amount of overlap between aluminium and fibreglass at the centre where there is maximum stress.

The Flyduino frame i bought myself recently is very similar to the design of the old sporan so anyone who likes the look of the Sporan pictured in this thread should have a look at the other threads on the flyduino frames.

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php/topic,97.0.html
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gav

how much does a rabbit board with all the sensors inc sonar cost then?  cheers

Gaza07

Wednesday,July 18, 2012, 09:15:13 #4 Last Edit: Wednesday,July 18, 2012, 09:18:39 by Gaza07
I bought my new one from love flight via ali express but I got stung for over £20 in duty  :o
This is the one I bought http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Group6B-Rabbit-Flight-Controller-with-all-modules-High-precision-barometer/611060_546322426.html
if you do buy a rabbit make sure you get the new one with the ms5611 baro, like the links below

I have also bought from GLB but you have to buy the Gps separately, there are other Gps modules available that will work with the rabbit, I have the rctimer gps it seems to take loner to get a fix,


The Rabbit with sonar and power distribution board http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rabbit-flight-controller-high-precision-barometer-for-quadcopter-multicopter-w-free-esc-connection-board-and-ultrasonic.html

Rabbit GPS http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rabbit-gps-receiver-w-u-blox-gps-module-for-rabbit-flight-controller.html

total from GLB $152.38  ($152.38 = £97.4515)

MadMax

I have had a few things from GLB and have never been stung for duty  ~~
I will stay clear of love flight then thanks for the links ~~

Gaza07

GLB can be good and mostly are but they do tend to sell products even when they are out of stock so you might have to wait if ordering from them  ;)

teslahed

A quick picture of my new 'carbon sporan'. I've replaced the aluminium with carbon fibre. This is easy to do with the new design with the clamped arms (and i hear it's best not to drill carbon fibre anyway) so whilst i wouldn't recommend the new design over the old one for use with the included aluminium arms, if the carbon fibre works out as i hope it will then the new design may be preferable for that. Hopefully the clamping pressure will be sufficient that the arms wont fly off when i spin at speed.



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9012__Carbon_Fiber_Square_Tube_750x10_5mm.html

(i did post some of this in the other thread too but i thought it made sense to include the info here too)

One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

I will give the square carbon fibre a try on my sporran when I bend an arm  :rolleyes: it looks much better in black and lighter to  ~~

teslahed

Quote from: Gaza07 on Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 13:02:47
I will give the square carbon fibre a try on my sporran when I bend an arm  :rolleyes: it looks much better in black and lighter to  ~~


That's one advantage of carbon fibre. You can't bend it so you'll never get a quadcopter that flies a bit funny but you don't know why like my flyduino does at the moment (got a new arm on order). It just breaks catastrophically instead :-/

Don't suppose you know how much one of your frames would weigh in a similarly bare condition? I should have weighed the thing with the aluminium arms attached before i modified it really but i didn't think of that :whistling:
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

I did weigh the bare frame but have no idea what it was now, is the weight on the web site as I weighed it for that purpose

teslahed

Quote from: Gaza07 on Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 13:20:33
I did weigh the bare frame but have no idea what it was now, is the weight on the web site as I weighed it for that purpose


The weight is given as 'weight: 285g' on the quadframes website. If that was taken from one of your builds then I'll assume that's a reliable figure - in which case I'm quite pleased  :smiley:
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

The weight would have been taken with the normal length arms, I haven't weighed one with the longer arms  ;)

teslahed

Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 14:38:31 #13 Last Edit: Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 14:43:00 by teslahed
Quote from: Gaza07 on Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 13:35:13
The weight would have been taken with the normal length arms, I haven't weighed one with the longer arms  ;)


That sounds even better put like that. My motor to motor distance is now 49cm with the carbon arms - i never seem to hit nice round figures with these things :confused:

I'm bunging the A2208-17 1100KV Outrunners on it that I originally bought for my Flyduino but then decided weren't quite powerful enough - i think they'll be fine on this quadcopter, i've seen you fly yours with the same motors. I'm intending to use this as my stable quadcopter for GPS, camera work and FPV flying and I'll keep the flyduino frame smaller and leaner for loops and rolls etc.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

Yea I have the same motors on one of my sporran frames with the rabbit flight controller it is very stable but wont break any world records for speed although it no snail either  ~~

teslahed

Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 15:19:49 #15 Last Edit: Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 15:21:22 by teslahed
Quote from: Gaza07 on Tuesday,July 31, 2012, 14:56:23
Yea I have the same motors on one of my sporran frames with the rabbit flight controller it is very stable but wont break any world records for speed although it no snail either  ~~


Have you tried messing with the;

#define MAXTHROTTLE 1950

Value? I've set mine up to 1950 from the 1850 default and got a noticeable performance increase. I've read somewhere that it's best to have max throttle set lower than the maximum possible value so that you always have some spare power for stabalisation even when at full throttle but personally I've not noticed any negative side effects after changing this setting. I suspect the KK boards are configured to give maximum possible throttle when you use full power on the controller unlike the MultiWii defaults - i noticed a speed decrease when i upgraded from KK to MultiWii anyway, so by changing this setting I'm just getting that difference back again. Since i only ever use full throttle in brief bursts when pulling stunts i don't necessarily need total stability at those points in time anyway.



got the motors on now :smiley: Wont be finished any time soon though - waiting on stuff to arrive (threadlock; I'm almost out and there's a lot of nuts).
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

Iv'e never messed with the max throttle setting but I might  ;) I see you fitted your nuts on the top   ::)
if you check mine all nuts are at the bottom  ;)
its looking good how are you going to attach your flight controller

teslahed

I put the nuts on the top so that if they do come undone the bolt rather than the nut falls to the floor, that being easier to find (larger). Is there a good reason to do it the other way around that i haven't spotted? I suppose the anodized black bolts look a bit neater if nothing else with the rest of the quadcopter in black - maybe I'll swap them around. I have to redo them all anyway when the threadlock arrives.

I think i can attach the flight controller by constructing a nub out of a chopped up nylon bolt which i can screw into the female side of a female / male nylon stand off to make a male/male nylon stand off. I can then use the nub to seat the nylon stand off in the right position - superglue gives enough strength to keep everything together even through the loops (i hope) whilst being brittle enough to allow me to remove them if necessary in the future.

http://postimage.org/gallery/140df93w/bc276a8e/ (link to photo album of process)

One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

I'm not sure I would trust super glue that much  :o but I suppose the board isn't really under any stress

MadMax

Are you fitting your rabbit to this frame has it arrived yet  :smiley:

teslahed

I probably will put the rabbit in this one (for the stability for learning FPV flying) but it hasn't arrived yet. It was only shipped a couple of weeks ago, apparently.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

teslahed

Saturday,August 11, 2012, 17:41:16 #21 Last Edit: Saturday,August 11, 2012, 17:46:18 by teslahed
Well I've wired up my Carbon Sporan and it's ready for it's maiden test flight. I haven't got a rabbit for it yet so I've put the Flyduino 'MWC Board matt black v3' from my old (crashed) flyduino frame in it as a temporary stop gap.



It's got a total weight of 650 grams without a battery but with everything else (i'm guessing the rabbit will add a few grams once i've got GPS and everything else on there) and the motor to motor distance is 49cm.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07


teslahed

It was a bit underpowered with the 8 inch props so I've fitted some 9 inch props to see how it goes with those.

I'm not sure if the RCtimer A2208 1100kv motors are strong enough for 9 inch props but it was hovering on 2/3rds power on the 8 inch props so it definitely needs a bit more lift. 

I'm waiting on threadlock to dry again now :-/
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

I'm running 10" props and 20a esc's on these motors and it seems pretty good  ~~

teslahed

That's reassuring to hear, thanks.

I'll try 10 inch props if 9 inches isn't enough to hover at about 50% power, but i think it will be.

I only went for 30 amp speed controllers rather than 20 because they were out of stock of the 20 amp ones in the uk warehouse in this range.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

MadMax


teslahed

Tuesday,August 14, 2012, 17:17:17 #27 Last Edit: Tuesday,August 14, 2012, 17:19:01 by teslahed
Just got the first quick test flight in the back garden - so far so good :smiley:



It's hovering at pretty much exactly 50% throttle with the 9 inch props and A2208-17 1100KV brushless motors so I'm happy. .
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gaza07

Looking good bags of power it should be fun and quite high on the grin factor scale  ~~

MadMax