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Andy7:
22 Aug 2019 10:27:36
Sure. But basically, all the subjects are getting cut off.
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21 Aug 2019 18:14:54
Can you pm me a screen shot of what you mean
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Gaza - can you make the subject line section in the forum topic list wider? It's cutting off the subject field really short.
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19 Aug 2019 09:14:20
Good for you!  ~~
DarkButterfly:
18 Aug 2019 19:13:57
Had another negative encounter, it's been a few years since the last one, just an uneducated ******, going on about drones being illegal yada yada yada.    :-/
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07 Aug 2019 19:52:01
ooooh mrs jones  :D
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30 Jul 2019 15:26:34
D.B. you tightwad.. :cool:
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29 Jul 2019 20:14:10
DB that just means you have shed loads of props in the first place ;-)
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29 Jul 2019 18:53:33
Just had a thought, even with all the crashing I've done, I haven't bought any replacement props in over a year ~~
ched:
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3d - Printworx

Printing 3d Forum

Power wiring

Started by QuadBod, Wednesday,January 16, 2013, 19:25:01

Previous topic - Next topic

QuadBod

[Someone had posted a question about wiring, then deleted it before I posted my anser. So here';s my answer anyway!]

Try giantshark.co.uk - sensible prices and quick delivery. I would use 16AWG silicone wire for the link to your ESCs and / or motors (depending on how you arrange things), and 12AWG from the battery to the power distribution board / spider. You could probably get away with 14 & 18, but that';s just me.

Personally I would go with XT60 connectors at the battery end of things, even if it means changing the connector on your battery. Others will have different preferences. The ones GS currently stock are good quality despite some of the earlier reviews. You';ll also need bullet connectors, at least between the motors and the ESC (3.5mm is common, but my motors came with 2mm male connectors), and possibly between wiring harness and ESCs (I prefer to hard wire the ESCs). Finally a few sizes of heat shrink sleeving for the bullets, the XT60s, and to cover the join if you make a spider.

Gaza07


Smeagol

Heres a good tip - Just in case  :rolleyes:

If you are replacing the connectors on the battery, cut one wire at a time, don';t be tempted to cut both in one hit unless your pacemaker needs a jump start.

Not speaking from experience  :smiley: just knowledge.

Henrik.A

Quote from: Smeagol on Thursday,January 17, 2013, 13:24:16
Heres a good tip - Just in case  :rolleyes:

If you are replacing the connectors on the battery, cut one wire at a time, don';t be tempted to cut both in one hit unless your pacemaker needs a jump start.

Not speaking from experience  :smiley: just knowledge.


+1!!

Ash

Hi QuadGod,

I think that was me. Sorry about that. I found the answer to my connector question so didn';t want to waste anyone';s time. I do, however, have another question.

I ordered some XT60 connectors and some 12AWG cable to solder onto the power distribution board of my F450. I found that the wire on the 12AWG was the same size as the XT60 plug, making it near impossible to solder nice and neatly together. I couldn';t help but think that the 14AWG would be a better fit, however i';m concerned about the load i';d be putting through the power cable. I have 30A ESC and looking to connect lipos around the 2200-2600mAh range. I';ve checked out a few youtube videos on soldering XT60 however as i';m new to soldering, i may be missing a simpler way to do this...or picking the wrong connector. I just ordered some 4mm bullet connectors as the new batteries i have (which came from HK) were fitted with the bullet connectors. Could you advise on if the 12AWG is the right cable to go with, if so does anyone else have issues soldering this to XT60 connectors? If the XT60 isn';t the best, would a bullet connector be better choice (fit nicer and easier to solder for newbies like me)?

Thanks in advance.

Ash


Quote from: QuadGod on Wednesday,January 16, 2013, 19:25:01
[Someone had posted a question about wiring, then deleted it before I posted my anser. So here';s my answer anyway!]

Try giantshark.co.uk - sensible prices and quick delivery. I would use 16AWG silicone wire for the link to your ESCs and / or motors (depending on how you arrange things), and 12AWG from the battery to the power distribution board / spider. You could probably get away with 14 & 18, but that';s just me.

Personally I would go with XT60 connectors at the battery end of things, even if it means changing the connector on your battery. Others will have different preferences. The ones GS currently stock are good quality despite some of the earlier reviews. You';ll also need bullet connectors, at least between the motors and the ESC (3.5mm is common, but my motors came with 2mm male connectors), and possibly between wiring harness and ESCs (I prefer to hard wire the ESCs). Finally a few sizes of heat shrink sleeving for the bullets, the XT60s, and to cover the join if you make a spider.

QuadBod

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 17:20:54
I ordered some XT60 connectors and some 12AWG cable to solder onto the power distribution board of my F450. I found that the wire on the 12AWG was the same size as the XT60 plug, making it near impossible to solder nice and neatly together.



You';re right, it is a close fit, but it is possible to solder them together neatly. I';d suggest trimming back just enough insulation that the exposed wire is exactly the right length to go in the XT 60, then give the strands of wire a twist to help them hold together. Normally at this point I';d be suggesting tinning the wire before soldering, but that will make your job that bit harder in this case. It should then just fit in the XT60, with perhaps a few strands left outside the cutout in the side of the opening - no big deal.

Apply heat, preferably to both the connector and the wire at the same time, then after it warms up a bit, apply solder. You want to feed the solder in on the opposite side from where the soldering-iron bit is, not to the bit itself. That way, the solder will only melt when the whole thing is hot enough. This will also draw the solder into the join. If you apply the solder to the bit, it will melt, but everything else may not be warm enough, so it will just sit on the outside.

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 17:20:54
I couldn';t help but think that the 14AWG would be a better fit, however i';m concerned about the load i';d be putting through the power cable. I have 30A ESC and looking to connect lipos around the 2200-2600mAh range.


If you';re still not having any luck solder 12AWG to XT60s, 14AWG will be fine given how short the wire needs to be.

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 17:20:54
I just ordered some 4mm bullet connectors as the new batteries i have (which came from HK) were fitted with the bullet connectors.


Are you sure about your batteries having bullet connectors? Sounds like a sure fire way to connect the wrong way around!

Ash

I';ve attached a pic of the battery connector. Newbie question so please excuse my stupidity....you never cross the positive to negative ever do you? If the positive is presented as a female bullet, I';ll therefore have to ensure the positive is a male bullet to connect?
I';ll have another go at the XT60 also, I found that I was heating the metal on the XT60 so much that if melted the plastic connector and slid through it, before the solder started to melt. Am I doing it wrong?

[attach=1]

RS

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 20:19:22
I';ve attached a pic of the battery connector. Newbie question so please excuse my stupidity....you never cross the positive to negative ever do you? If the positive is presented as a female bullet, I';ll therefore have to ensure the positive is a male bullet to connect?
I';ll have another go at the XT60 also, I found that I was heating the metal on the XT60 so much that if melted the plastic connector and slid through it, before the solder started to melt. Am I doing it wrong?

[attach=1]


You need a more  powerful soldering Iron i guess... Or some  thicker tip  at least . .  12awg  is not easy to solder..  something like 40W soldering iron  should be OK.
and I would suggest  to plug   another xt60 in  ,so  it does not move ,even if starts  to melt a bit, but  DO NOT forget to isolate the other end, because  you can shorten  + and - accidentally when soldering  it to a battery

QuadBod

Quote from: RS on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 21:57:14
You need a more  powerful soldering Iron i guess... Or some  thicker tip  at least . .  12awg  is not easy to solder..  something like 40W soldering iron  should be OK.


I use 25W iron with a chisel tip and have no problems with enough head to solder 12AWG to XT60s (or four 16AWGs to a 12AWG). Never had problems with the plastic melting either, but I agree with your suggestion to plug another XT in - if nothing else the additional metal will act as a heat sink.

RS

Agree. 25W with a chisel tip should be  OK
I have  used 20W ,but I did not like  it. It works on a  tick  wires like  12awg, but as good  as  40W
But the  best  thing would be investing in to adjustable soldering station. Since I got one, never looked back  ~~

benchmark

here is a little guide video if you have not seen it already


Ash

Quote from: benchmark on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 23:19:10
here is a little guide video if you have not seen it already




Good video, although he';s using a lot smaller gauge than 12AWG...

RS

Trim your wire a bit, make it  thinner and it  will be easier

QuadBod

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 20:19:22
I';ve attached a pic of the battery connector.


It';s an HXT.

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 20:19:22

Newbie question so please excuse my stupidity....you never cross the positive to negative ever do you? If the positive is presented as a female bullet, I';ll therefore have to ensure the positive is a male bullet to connect?


Correct, but it would be in the same enclosure as in your picture, not a loose bullet connector.

Quote from: Ash on Saturday,January 19, 2013, 20:19:22
I';ll have another go at the XT60 also, I found that I was heating the metal on the XT60 so much that if melted the plastic connector and slid through it, before the solder started to melt.


I forgot to ask what type of solder you';re using. I use 60/40 tin/lead only as that';s what I';ve had for years; but importantly it';s rosin cored, which acts as flux (cleaning and wetting agent) as you use the solder. If yours isn';t rosin cored, you';ll need to add flux to the components before you solder. Use a "no-clean" type as anything else is acidic and will eventually corrode your connections. Rosin is only acidic at soldering temperatures, so doesn';t have to be cleaned. And it smells nice.  :laugh: