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3d - Printworx

Printing 3d Forum

How to flash your ESCs with improved SimonK firmware - the easy way

Started by teslahed, Monday,January 07, 2013, 18:11:22

Previous topic - Next topic

XH558

Very exciting - the USB thing arrives today from ebay .... (thanks QuadGod  :wack0)

To slow things down a bit I had a disaster last night with my laptop - long story but I got a mega Trojan Horse infection which basically disabled my anti virus and locked the computer solid ..... it needed a complete rebuild - took me 2 hours last night and I didn';t start till midnight  :shrug: :blink
But a side effect of that was I lost all my KK software and USBasp driver software and loads more .....

So when I get home this evening it';s finding drivers - getting it all reloaded and ';working'; - then it was the moment of truth ... link to the software Teslahed pointed me too - load it up on the black KK software .... gingerly place the white doo hicky thing on the processor and with the other hand tentatively click the green man ...

Success first time .... loads of white writing ..... flew through no bother ....

Well impressed with the electronics gizmo kit  ~~ with the advice and help  :notworthy:  and with myself  :cool: :cool:

The other 3 were the same - all done and dusted in less than 5 minutes  ::)

Then I bound the little lids I made to access the chips back on with black insulation tape - job done ...

Next to reinstall them on the quad .... to be continued  :azn 


Gaza07


teslahed

Thanks for doing such a detailed write up XH558. Hopefully it will help a few other people who are working through the guide if they get stuck, or anyone considering giving it a go who hasn';t made their mind up yet.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Gav

Be careful folks when flashing.  Make sure to use the correct hex file.  I had a couple of esc';s that had no label so tried flashing them with different hex files till one worked.
OH DEAR had a mini bonfire as one hex file program made the mosfets light up like a Xmas tree and desolder themselves while glowing red hot and setting themselves on fire.  It was impressive to see but stank like hell.  Be careful folks :-[

Iberian

Just a quick reminder...although I absolutely recommend to replace the thermally conductive pad with thermal paste (I still prefer Artic Silver) you should be aware that in some ESC there is a risk of causing a short between the heat-sink and the the pads where the wires are soldered. I had a bad experience with this when, after flashing some Giantcod 30A RC Max ESC, I realized that there was a short ( I always check this before applying power). There are several solutions for this without cutting the heat-sink (don';t do that...). The one that I';ve used was to apply 3 coats of liquid rubber on the pads. It proved to work and the only drawback  is that you need to wait at least 4 hours to finish the job ( apply the thermal paste and and fit the heat-sink).

Tony

DarrenG

Thank you for such a great walkthrough. My HK Blue Series 30A ESCs arrived this morning from Hong Kong. Eight days from order to delivery, very impressive.

I also ordered the Atmel programmer and, following your guide, I';ve just flashed an ESC successfully the very first time.

On the first I removed all the heatshrink but for the remaining three I just cut a hole over the Atmel chip.  Now I need to order some heatshrink, any advice on what size I need?
Darren Griffin
@DarrenGriffin, @TheMacFixer & @PocketGPSWorld
Sky-Hero Little Spyder with Naza V2, Arducopter Quad with Pixhawk and Emax 250 with Naze32

dp106

Quote from: DarrenG on Saturday,May 11, 2013, 13:12:37
Thank you for such a great walkthrough. My HK Blue Series 30A ESCs arrived this morning from Hong Kong. Eight days from order to delivery, very impressive.

I also ordered the Atmel programmer and, following your guide, I';ve just flashed an ESC successfully the very first time.

On the first I removed all the heatshrink but for the remaining three I just cut a hole over the Atmel chip.  Now I need to order some heatshrink, any advice on what size I need?
+1 finally braved it and did mine Thursday night. I had a couple of errors when I didn';t have the tool seated properly but thankfully it just failed and aborted rather than bricking my esc.

With this weather all I';ve managed is a brief hover test in the living room so far. Not enough to tell if there';s any improvement in performance.

teslahed

Quote from: DarrenG on Saturday,May 11, 2013, 13:12:37 On the first I removed all the heatshrink but for the remaining three I just cut a hole over the Atmel chip.  Now I need to order some heatshrink, any advice on what size I need?


I';ve found the 25mm transparent stuff you can get from hobbyking or ebay works well on standard sized ESCs.


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=13839
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

DarrenG

Quote from: teslahed on Sunday,May 12, 2013, 18:41:20
I';ve found the 25mm transparent stuff you can get from hobbyking or ebay works well on standard sized ESCs.

Thank you, ordered some 25mm, thanks.
Darren Griffin
@DarrenGriffin, @TheMacFixer & @PocketGPSWorld
Sky-Hero Little Spyder with Naza V2, Arducopter Quad with Pixhawk and Emax 250 with Naze32

firey1

Quote from: DarrenG on Sunday,May 12, 2013, 20:12:23
Thank you, ordered some 25mm, thanks.


just did mine in the clear and looks good better than the bright blue blends in better
MIKE

550 RC Spider quad for FPV
550 Alien quad (my sons now)
F450 quad
450 size bell 212, MD500,Augusta 109
600 size Huey running apm 2.5  3 planes  Taranis and 9xr  radios Skyzone FPV goggles

nub

is anybody on the board selling ESC';s pre flashed?

could do with 4 of these.

or if i could possibly borrow someones Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool as they are on back order gah! :(
Point and click.

Monkey see, Monkey do.

nub

na, no one wanting to help me oot?


booo! poor show :tongue: lol


no like i';m gonna do a runner with it min fs :laugh:


i got 4 10A flashed ESC';s on ebay cost me £40 but nvm.

thx.


Point and click.

Monkey see, Monkey do.

Gaza07

If I had one you would be more than welcome to use it but I haven';t, I didn';t mine with a home made pogo pin tool that I made  :rolleyes:  ~~

Quote from: nub on Thursday,May 16, 2013, 16:10:45
na, no one wanting to help me oot?


booo! poor show :tongue: lol


no like i';m gonna do a runner with it min fs :laugh:


i got 4 10A flashed ESC';s on ebay cost me £40 but nvm.

thx.

nub

nae bother lol ach suppose i could have made something up and flashed them myself but i couldn';t really be bothered and thought i';d chance ma luck :laugh:

i';m just not in the right mood for messing about at the moment, which is quite strange because its one part of the hobby i really like, the modding, tweaking, makeshifting etc

maybe next time :)
Point and click.

Monkey see, Monkey do.

firey1

my flash unit just arrived this morning
all flashed and ready to go back on
will be interesting to see the difference
and you could borrow mine Nub but will take a week or two to get to the UK
MIKE

550 RC Spider quad for FPV
550 Alien quad (my sons now)
F450 quad
450 size bell 212, MD500,Augusta 109
600 size Huey running apm 2.5  3 planes  Taranis and 9xr  radios Skyzone FPV goggles

firey1

First test flight with flashed 30 amp HK ESCs
all i can say is holy S__T  ~~
totally different copter no glitching rock steady loiter and really quick off the mark
was well and truly worth it  :notworthy:
MIKE

550 RC Spider quad for FPV
550 Alien quad (my sons now)
F450 quad
450 size bell 212, MD500,Augusta 109
600 size Huey running apm 2.5  3 planes  Taranis and 9xr  radios Skyzone FPV goggles

Gaza07

Another convert this is why we always recommend flashed esc';s  ~~

dp106

Hmm I';m having a different experience, since flashing mine it seems I need to reduce the gains on the Naza :-S

firey1

i could actually put it in to loiter and roll a smoke and it didnt move more than a arms length
before it would hold about 10 sec then glitch to the right or left
increased PIDs from 1.5 to 1.65 before it started raining could still go some more

im running apm 2.5
MIKE

550 RC Spider quad for FPV
550 Alien quad (my sons now)
F450 quad
450 size bell 212, MD500,Augusta 109
600 size Huey running apm 2.5  3 planes  Taranis and 9xr  radios Skyzone FPV goggles

nub

gah! 2wks dinny think i could wait that long firey cheers though :smiley:

sounds great! i';ve read a lot about how much of an improvement it is but suppose i won';t really find out until i try it for myself.

that is strange dp its usually the other way round, is that the same experience of others with flashed ESC';s and the naza? what kind of motors do u run, maybe its a balance problem that';s made worse because the motors are reacting quicker or something?
Point and click.

Monkey see, Monkey do.

teslahed

It';s probably not the same on Multiwii as with the Naza but the main gyro setting for pitch and roll defaults to 3.3. I can usually get it up to about 3.5 before i get feedback oscillations with the standard ESC firmware, or all the way up to 6.0 with simonK.

In terms of ';feel'; it makes the quadcopter seem a lot more ';locked in'; to whatever heading you give it. On a calm day i could probably roll myself a smoke with my hands off the transmitter - without using auto-level! Actually that might be pushing it a bit - and i';d have to take up smoking again first - but the point is that the quadcopter will just sit wherever you put it much more happily when the ESCs are updating at a higher rate thanks to SimonK. 

dp106 - sorry to hear it';s not working so well for you. What type of ESC are you using? Have you tried playing with the ESC update speed in the NAZA PC software? I believe there is an option you can tweak in there that might help a bit.
One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

dp106

Quote from: teslahed on Friday,May 17, 2013, 13:48:56
dp106 - sorry to hear it';s not working so well for you. What type of ESC are you using? Have you tried playing with the ESC update speed in the NAZA PC software? I believe there is an option you can tweak in there that might help a bit.
I';m using turnigy multistars, they do try and market them as high refresh rates so is it possible they';re good with the standard firmware on there.. I reset the gains to default values at lunch and strangely that was different to the values I started with?! It seemed to be ok at the defaults (all values 100%), but then I had another motor depart on its own flight so that was an abrupt end to my testing :-S

teslahed

The multistar ESCs were no better than the HK blue series or the turnigy plush based ESCs - actually worse in some ways. Hobbyking decided to market them at multirotor fliers and branded them as ';multistar'; to make them sound particularly suitable for that kind of thing for some reason...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AhR02IDNb7_MdEhfVjk3MkRHVzhKdjU1YzdBQkZZRlE#gid=0

According to that they are basically the same as the blue series only they use cheaper FETs (the little chips that deal with the power flow and get hot) so wont be quite as efficient.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15205__Hobby_King_30A_ESC_3A_UBEC.html
These are similar to the multistars only they use better chips (N channel FETs rather than mixed P/N channel).

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9484__mystery_20a_brushless_speed_controller_blue_series_.html
These ones are better unless you want to run at 4 cells - they only go up to 3 cells.

One circlip short of a quadcopter.
 1 lobe short of an antenna.

Hands0n

I just flashed up a set of four Red Brick 30A with the SimonK firmware - tomorrow I hope to test these out in my H-quad rig.

But a word of warning - the Google Doc lists tgy.hex as the correct firmware for the Red Brick 30A.   Yet on rcgroups there is a thread where SimonK says to use tp_8khz.hex instead, to avoid an overheating issue with tp.hex.  No mention of tgy.hex at all.

QuoteIn the 2012-09-30 release and in anything newer, there is a "tp_8khz.hex" build that is the same as tp.hex but runs the PWM at 8kHz. This should work fine for you if flashed instead of tp.hex. the only workaround I am aware of that avoids overheating on these boards, short of changing the resistors around the NPNs that drive the high side FET gates. Note that you will hear the typical 8kHz PWM ringing noise that the stock ESC software uses, but the update rate and responsiveness will be almost identical.


The full thread is here --> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1867365&highlight=red+brick+simonk+firmwar
--
Danny
"Its better than bad, its good"

Current FCs: Pixhawk, APM 2.6, Naza M V2, Naze32, Flip32+ CC3D, KK2.1.5
Aircraft: miniMax Hex, DJI 550 (clone) TBS Disco, 450 Firefly, 250 Pro, ZMR250, Hubsan X4, Bixler 2

John A

HELP! Just when it was going so well.....
I have built my quad with 4 Turnigy plush-30A ESCs. Being new, I had not realised that re-flashing them would be a good idea. I have the Turnigy programming card and have set them up as mentioned elsewhere on the site. Having read the posts here I looked at the spreadsheet to see if I can re-flash. the spreadsheet says that the new plush 30s are Silabs based. I am guessing the old ones are ATmega. Uh, is there an easy way to identify which I have and please can I ask for advice on what to do next. My aircraft is powered by Sunnysky 2212 KV980s and my controller is a KK2 (which I have discovered, also needs upgrading from the 1.2 to 1.5 or 1.6) I think I will be able to work out what to do with the KK2, but am confused about the ESCs. Any advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks for reading,
John A

Gav

Probably silab yes.  Turnigy plush seem to run nicely without reflashing and if your quad flies smoothly as it is I wouldn';t really stress about reflashing.  I have a quad with 18A plush esc';s and it purrs away beautifully as it is.  A quick way to identify what chip is fitted is to carefully slit the heatshrink down one side and peal it open and have a gander at the main chip.  Use tape to seal the heat shink back on or if you have some put freah heatshrink on.

John A

Thanks for the advice. Yes, the quad does fly very smoothly so I will not worry too much about re-flashing at the moment. I think the way to go may be to upgrade the KK2 and see how that goes. Thanks again....

John A

Trev2971

cheers for this ... just done 4 of mine ... nice guide :) ..

onto the multiwii  :sick:
TBS Discovery v1 Naza FC / 3d print gimbal
TBS Discovery NazeAcro £100 Special
Alien 500 clone Multiwii
Flamewheel
TBS Discovery Naze32 full
Tbs Discovery aq500pro fc
RCX mini naze acro
Blackout Mini naze acro
HK550 scratch mini nazeacro
building a carbon tri
Hubsan X4 H107L (2)
Hubsan 107D and 10

SteveH

Hi All  I hope someone can help.
I am trying to flash an F30A hobbyking esc using the hobbyking flash tool and lazyzero';s flash programme.
I am trying to flash with the bs-nfet.hex as stated in the firmware guide.
When I try to flash I get the error message

';Device signature = 0x9e9387
Expected signature for Atmega8 is 1E9307
Double check chip or use -F to override this check
avrdude.exe done - thank you
Error during writing flash';

I have checked the chip on the esc and it is an ATMEGA 8A.

Can anyone please help?
Thanks.

SteveH

Managed to sort the problem
Applying 5 Volts to the esc through the receiver plug allowed me to flash the firmware OK. :smiley: