new mini fpv quad

[heliphil]

quite fancy getting / building one for the garden etc - any recommendations - would need cheap goggle too

[ched]

Do you have a transmitter? If so what model. Have you flown a quad before? I am assuming by your name you have heli experience :-)
Do you have a big garden and what sort of budget did you have in mind?

[Bad Raven]

As Ched says not enough info.  For one example, is noise likely an issue with neighbours? as to answer the BetaFPV 65's are FAR noisier than the equally sized and just as fast HappyModel Mobula 6's.

Budget?
Existing Gear?
ONLY garden use, or garden plus house and or plus park?

The "blind" answer is the Happymodel Mobula 6 (NOT the HD one which is heavier, so less nimble and much shorter flight time). For goggles buy the Eachine EV200D but if that's too much, buy the EV100's. 

[heliphil]

been flying for years ( started with rc cars in 1980 )- budget ~£100 and I have a Radiomaster TX16S so can bind with most stuff

[badger1]

push it to £150 & you could get a 65mm (prop size) Whoop-type quad that will run Betaflight & a pair the Eachine EV100 goggles that Bad Raven mentioned.  £100 isn't really enough unless you want toy-grade stuff.

[ched]

been flying for years ( started with rc cars in 1980 )- budget ~£100 and I have a Radiomaster TX16S so can bind with most stuff

To get a small quad and goggles your budget isn't really enough.
Closest I can get is about £130 here for a decent quad (Emax Tiny Hawk 2) and some very basic goggles. You also get a FRSky type controller but yours will be much better, 1 x 1S battery and 1 x 2S battery, charger and a carry case.
You can buy just the quad and goggles separate but it's virtually same costs and you don't get the case for it all to fit in.

The emax Tiny hawk 2 is a good indoor and outdoor/garden quad. I have a Mobula6 19000kv which is about £75 inc 4 batteries. It comes as FlySky or FRsky but then you need goggles. Cheapest budget box goggles that are OK I would say are the Eachines EV800 at about £42. They would probably be a bit better than the Emax ones plus they split to be a 5" monitor or box goggles.
The cheapest 'fat shark style' goggles are the eachines ev100 at about £75 or £90 with dvr. These were my first fat shark style goggles after my huge Quanum V2 box goggles. They are great for the money but the images are small and appear quite a way away from you - they do have diopter adjustments though which is great. I only upgraded to Fat Shark HDO2 at Christmas as a big treat.
WOW the HDO2 are great, huge screen, very bright but they are expensive.

The budget stuff I have listed is all reasonable quality and will get you flying fpv round your garden. After your experience you should be fine flying round your garden. I would start off indoors just so you get used to the quads responsiveness.

Good Luck and have fun.

[Bad Raven]

Some basic Info:-

Micro quads are usually identified  by the diagonal dimension between motor shafts. This is an old system gradually becoming less used. It was used for quads above 100mm too but nearly universally this has been amended to the prop size, so (say) a 150 is likely a 3", and a 250 is normally now listed as a 5".

Up to 90 the old system is more normal, so a 65mm is not the prop size, but the diagonal between motor shafts.

While a micro that uses 2 cell (2S) packs is good for outdoors inc garden, its a liability inside the house, due increased power and even more so weight. Good therefore to be able to use 1S and 2S, but not all do.

If you want to run indoor at home ducted props are pretty much essential unless you live in an internally armoured bunker. Sports Hall, maybe, Home, no!

Strictly the "Tiny Whoop" race class is 65mm, though sellers can list 75 and above as such.

If you are really on a strict budget the Eachine QX65 is OK for Indoor and Garden. However the Mobula6 (which is not 6", it is 65mm!!) in lighter non-HD form is better (and dearer).

Ducted Brushless 75mm on 1S is the max I would advise for Indoor Home. 75mm Brushless 2S for a decently obstacle free garden.

Some quads are motors and so props down (Tinyhawk). Bear in mind that puts props close to or into grass even when landed right way up!! I do not advise these for first time use in a typical UK garden or park.

Without fuller answers to the questions in previous posts better advice is not possible.

Good Luck.

[badger1]

... 65mm is not the prop size, but the diagonal between motor shafts.

oops.  my bad.  thanks BR  :)

[heliphil]

well I have gone for the Mobula6 and will see how that flies before I decide on the goggles - the fact that I can't read without glasses may affect the decision

[Bad Raven]

well I have gone for the Mobula6 and will see how that flies before I decide on the goggles - the fact that I can't read without glasses may affect the decision

Initially I bought a screen headset made from a 5" car reversing camera, then adjusted the focal length to suit me by making a box extension from black plasticard. I could have used glasses under the standard headset as it was proportioned OK if double foam depth on "seal". Easier though to only have one thing to "fit and remove"

Now I use Eachine EV200D's without anything other than its own adjustment for distance eyes apart and focus.

Whereabouts are you located as there might be someone willing to let you try (and disinfect before and after!!  )

[badger1]

well I have gone for the Mobula6 and will see how that flies before I decide on the goggles - the fact that I can't read without glasses may affect the decision

so long as you're long-sighted, which if you need glasses for reading it sounds like you are, then you should be fine with the FatShark/EV100-type goggles as the focus is as if you were watching TV across a room, not as if you had to focus on a screen 1/2" away from your eyes!  I started out with EV100s & I could use them fine, & I can't read anything without glasses!

I'm not quite sure how it works with box goggles, so someone else will need to advise you on that if you're thinking of going that route.

[heliphil]

certainly would be nice to try a set of goggles before buying - I am in Brentwood Essex if anyone is close by !

Initially I bought a screen headset made from a 5" car reversing camera, then adjusted the focal length to suit me by making a box extension from black plasticard. I could have used glasses under the standard headset as it was proportioned OK if double foam depth on "seal". Easier though to only have one thing to "fit and remove"

Now I use Eachine EV200D's without anything other than its own adjustment for distance eyes apart and focus.

Whereabouts are you located as there might be someone willing to let you try (and disinfect before and after!!  )

[Bad Raven]

certainly would be nice to try a set of goggles before buying - I am in Brentwood Essex if anyone is close by !

I'm in Bromley, Kent, a bit of a trek, but I do have :-

Eachine EV100
Eachine EV200D
Quantum Box
2 of converted car reversing camera Box's with "name" receivers fitted.
 
and a few of the toy end units, one being not bad at all for around £25 when bought, an Eachine 007 (whereas the 006 was rubbish!)

[ched]

I'm in Bromley, Kent

I used to live down that way. In Chislehurst and worked in Bickley back in 1987. Then lived in Orpington :-)

[heliphil]

well i've gone for the EV100 to try things out - hopefully it all works out well

[Bad Raven]

well i've gone for the EV100 to try things out - hopefully it all works out well

That pairing will work OK, and you have to jump quite a bit on costs to get a better set of goggles (as distinct from a headset/box goggle).

[heliphil]

So I had trouble binding it ( flashed betaflight to 4.1.0 and could bind ) and then the motors wouldn't run so flashed JESC 48mhz to the esc's and now it works fine but the OSD is different to before and its very twitchy to fly - does anyone have a setup for thats nice and stable please ( for betaflight 4.1.0   and the TX)

[Bad Raven]

So I had trouble binding it ( flashed betaflight to 4.1.0 and could bind ) and then the motors wouldn't run so flashed JESC 48mhz to the esc's and now it works fine but the OSD is different to before and its very twitchy to fly - does anyone have a setup for thats nice and stable please ( for betaflight 4.1.0   and the TX)

Both my Mob 6's were easy to bind and continue to work well bog standard. Is yours the lower or higher kV motors?  (I have both and there is a fair difference between them)

How many profiles did yours arrive with?

In what way is the OSD different? Can you not make it like you want on the Betaflight screen for it?

Before doing ANYTHING make sure you save a dump file and a diff_all.

If you need to briefly de-tune it till you get used to it I suggest:-

1. On the Tx set Max throttle down via rate or a curve to flatten the hover point some till its easier to keep a desired height.
2. On The PID screen Rate Tab adjust Rate and Super Rate till you get the feel that suits.

I strongly suggest you do not alter PID etc settings without a clear record of a way back IF AT ALL.

The set up on the Mob6's is very very close to ideal, and hopefully you'll need the de-tune for very little time.