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MultiRotorUK ShoutBox

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  • hoverfly: beararsedcheek... :laugh:
    September 18, 2018, 18:42:15
  • Bad Raven: or bearreft, or bear left?
    September 17, 2018, 14:21:16
  • Bad Raven: or isnotherebear
    September 17, 2018, 14:20:30
  • Bad Raven: more like doesnotcarebear
    September 17, 2018, 14:20:07
  • Gav: carebear?
    September 17, 2018, 11:37:44
  • atomiclama: you there bear??
    September 15, 2018, 11:42:45
  • Reman: Got stuck in traffic yesterday. After an hour I started using my phone (And an OTG cable) to look through the media files on a keyring of my old USB sticks. Found one that had the entire run of "Firefly" on it. I got through 3 episodes before the traffic started moving again....... God, That really was an amazing show.
    September 14, 2018, 19:52:46
  • Gav: ok dude
    September 08, 2018, 16:40:59
  • mo_miah: Gav- if its a camera ship then TBS crossfire is definitely what you need, the FrSky has limited channels and telemetry options, TBS crossfire has much better features and more channels to control camera gimbals etc
    September 07, 2018, 11:53:01
  • Gav: mo miah - wanna swap from immertionRC UHF and try something else on my camera Ship.
    September 07, 2018, 11:25:40
  • DarkButterfly: My laminate arrived, the rebuild is coming along ~~
    September 06, 2018, 20:00:44
  • hoverfly: I coated a couple of Slipstreams  a few years ago  It stiffened up the wing nicely .On the down side although it prevented dings when i had an high speed"arrival" it left the resin cracked. and the glass lifted slightly.  Well stuck laminate stiffens the wing and is flexible..
    September 06, 2018, 18:26:13
  • DarkButterfly: I'm doing laminate, just put my order in for some, also got some balsa wood for the side parts, had to use a kitchen knife to seperate the foam from the busted wood
    September 05, 2018, 13:21:11
  • atomiclama: Thanks, can't decide on fibre glass or laminate. Like the idea of fibre for some reason, don't know why.
    September 05, 2018, 10:45:48
  • Bad Raven: Usng PolyC, yes
    September 05, 2018, 10:13:54
  • atomiclama: Anyone fibre glass coat their wings??
    September 05, 2018, 09:30:22
  • atomiclama: @DB well you obviously need a bigger motor and ESC, as flying slower is just not possible.  ::)
    September 05, 2018, 09:29:59
  • DarkButterfly: ~~
    September 05, 2018, 09:10:18
  • hoverfly: If you put a couple of coats of Eze Kote on the wing before the laminate it sticks really well lifting.. :smiley:
    September 05, 2018, 08:47:37
  • DarkButterfly: If it makes you feel better, I’m going to completely refurbish my falcon Evo with new balsa sides and new laminate ~~
    September 04, 2018, 21:42:53

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Transmitters / Receivers / Refining my switch setup
« Last post by Andy7 on September 18, 2018, 23:18:27  »
Loving air mode, but hating the freak-out bounce on land or disarming before on the ground.
So, time to tweak the switch settings on my QX7.

I think it may just come down to changing my arm switch and putting air mode on the arm.

Currently, I have:

right-shoulder momentary sw: pre-arm.
left-shoulder 2way: arm
left 3-way: mode - air|horizon|stab (I think - but the 0 setting is air so that the switch warning reminds me to set to air mode).

And another for beeper.

I have the arm switches on opposite ends of the radio because (not a common problem) the dog ONCE flipped the arm switch with his tail when the radio was on the bench while I was setting down my quad - fingers saved by the pre-arm!!!

I like the pre-arm on the momentary switch, so it kind of feels logical to put my disarm|arm|arm+air on the right short 3-way so that I can arm and pull it all the way to fly in air mode. Arm switches all on one side, but I'll deal with the dog-arming.

...then, carefully flip the switch to the middle to turn off air-mode to come in to land, and all the way off to disarm.

A little worried about accidentally disarming coming in to land though.

Anyone got a better setup than that?
General Discussion / Re: did 'YOU' fly today??
« Last post by hoverfly on September 18, 2018, 18:40:35  »
YOWZER, it was windy!!
Understatement of the year so far.  :laugh: I drove over to Worcester to pick up an a/c  and got conker bombed.
The trees overhanging the road were shedding them all over the place :rolleyes:
250 Builds / Re: Everyone needs a little B-roll
« Last post by Lamaule on September 18, 2018, 18:04:33  »
Ok so frame arrived, teaser pic next to smooth operator to demonstrate size

Stop showing me pictures of cool stuff!

Sent from my VTR-L09 using Tapatalk

« Last post by Andy7 on September 18, 2018, 18:01:20  »
Clever idea! Had a lot of people fooled that it was 3D DESPITE what you said in the description.

« Last post by War Chest on September 18, 2018, 17:46:32  »
General Discussion / Re: did 'YOU' fly today??
« Last post by Andy7 on September 18, 2018, 17:35:44  »
Got up to Boars Hill in the end after a false start when the wife had the car so I was stranded.

YOWZER, it was windy!! Made the props scream nicely though!  :wack0
250 Builds / Re: Everyone needs a little B-roll
« Last post by Cheredanine on September 18, 2018, 15:03:01  »
Ok so frame arrived, teaser pic next to smooth operator to demonstrate size

250 Builds / Re: Fried motor whilst testing new build in BF3.5.1
« Last post by Cheredanine on September 18, 2018, 15:00:56  »
i know the tape,and have used it, should be fine.

Typically when you get an issue with a motor or an esc and you are not sure which. You switch two motors over like this, if the issue moves with the motor, then the motor has the problem, if it stays with the esc then the esc has the problem.

In your case it wouldn’t hurt to do one at a time, the order is pretty irrelevant, try one and if that works fine, try the other
250 Builds / Re: Fried motor whilst testing new build in BF3.5.1
« Last post by Stickman on September 18, 2018, 14:36:34  »
Thanks, that's really comprehensive!  I agree it doesn't sound like a bolt contacting the windings from your description.
I thought I checked continuity between the all race wire joints but perhaps I missed one; I agree that a short there would explain it melting the solder.  I'm using 3M super strong mounting tape under the full length of the race wire.  It's not foam but it is a couple of mm thick - I'd describe it as 'gummy' in texture.  It's not specifically for electrical components, more for DIY, so perhaps I should add a layer of electrical tape between that and the carbon to be on the safe side.

Sorry just to clarify the test - should I take the suspect motor off the quad temporarily whilst I test another motor on the suspect esc (so three motors on the quad), or simply swap the motors round leaving all four motors on whilst I test?
250 Builds / Re: Fried motor whilst testing new build in BF3.5.1
« Last post by Cheredanine on September 18, 2018, 13:55:45  »
Firstly let’s dispense with your capacitor concern. The caps are between + and ground, if you short them the power will run down the short and deprive the rest of the circuitry of power, rapidly discharging the lipo which in its self is a risk but won’t cause damage to your motors

Second your continuity test on the motors is also perfectly normal.

Cheds statement about screws is correct ish (don’t forget different motors have windings at different heights, carbon varies slightly in thickness.
However motor screws touching the windings produces a grinding noise spinning up the motors, the motor won’t spin properly and a lot of heat is produced, this in turn melts the winding on the motor eventually, producing smoke, a god awful smell and can produce flames eventually,

This is not, to my mind what you are describing, it doesnt, for example, explain the racewire desolder,

I think a far more likely explanation is when you soldered up the racewire you had a short between the wires at the solder point. The short produced heat melting the wire off the racewire board. This, in its self, is unlikely to damage the motor, have a look, see if you can see any discolouration on the windings, does it smell burned?
It can damage the esc, which, because spinning the motor by hand produces current in the esc, can actually make the motor feel stiffer.

Not saying you haven’t damaged the motor, but I would check as above for discolouration or smell, and I would switch the motor with one on another arm, being VERY careful with the racewire, and test again.

What are you using to insulate the racewire from the arms?
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