Tarot 250 project - step by step build [FINISHED]

[Beaver2206]

Over the course of the next few weeks, I will be putting together a 250 FPV platform.  You could call it a racer, though my input behind the sticks will hardly warrant that name for it.

I pondered over various ZMRs, Blackouts, Cicadas, octocopters, though settled on the new Tarot frame 250 frame as I like the look of it and fancied something challenging (some of the negative comments I have seen would certainly say I have a few challenges ahead!). 

Otherwise, this will be nothing too far off of a traditional spec for this type of frame.  My initial draft looks like this:



I am going to revise on the Lemon RX, I think there are better options out there.  For reference, I am using a Spektrum DX6i.  Crunching the numbers in Ecalc achieves the following:





The motors are not as per spec, though it was close enough for Ecalc (it wasn';t showing the DYS motors that day!  Anybody else had this?).

I am really pleased with the Tarot frame, that said, there are some major oversights such as missing bolt holes and a pretty exposed camera position.  On the other hand, the carbon is lush and machined with care and precision (apart from the missing hole!).  The XT60 was even the correct fitting in mine!  Looks like my luck is in.









I am waiting until pay day to purchase the remaining items (#skintjanuary).  This will give me time to consider the current spec and source parts.  But why not join me on the highs and no doubt lows that are to follow and may, just maybe, I';ll get something we';ll get it in the air.

[quadfather]

I haven';t searched for any reviews, but I do like the look of that frame.

Did you mean to run ecalc with a 3300mAh battery?

[Beaver2206]

I haven';t searched for any reviews, but I do like the look of that frame.

Did you mean to run ecalc with a 3300mAh battery?

Yeah, spotted that and the 20A ESC';s (though 12a isn';t listed), I was just experimenting with the variables.  Not the most accurate calculation to show really was it.  Sorry about that.

I intend to use a Zippy 2200mAH for testing, still quite heavy, though I have a few of them kicking around.  Other posts indicate I should be able to use this, though obviously with impact to responsiveness etc...

[quadfather]

I think most people run between 1300 and 1800mAh on the 250 sized quads.  I have a bunch of 2200s as well, but could only sling them underneath due to size.  Not tried it yet.

[Beaver2206]

I think most people run between 1300 and 1800mAh on the 250 sized quads.  I have a bunch of 2200s as well, but could only sling them underneath due to size.  Not tried it yet.

They';re not expensive, so I';ll no doubt pick some up at some stage.  I think between 1300 and 1800 is a good idea, thanks.

[Sweet Pickle]

You need to have a shop around mate. Some of the prices in your spreadsheet could be improved with a bit of digging.
Suppose it boils down to patience or lack of if you';re anything like me.

[RaceAce]

Why use a lemon RX, i soldered a DSM2 sat straight to the board bound to my JR DSX9.
You need to bind the sat first then fix to the board and change the channel order on the Naze but thats it.
And the latest Naze boards can be powered of the 3s battery no problem.

I used ZTW 12A opto esc,s and DYS motors from Bang Good £46 posted.
And run nano tech 3s 1500 lipo,s. Plenty of power and time.

There is a thread on this frame with some good info, worth spending 5 min looking through it.

Mine is modified slightly with longer spacers between the frames to give more room for the board, plugs etc.

Keep it light and its a quick bugger.

[Beaver2206]

You need to have a shop around mate. Some of the prices in your spreadsheet could be improved with a bit of digging.
Suppose it boils down to patience or lack of if you';re anything like me.

Yes, I agree.  Whilst I m saving up for the remaining components, I will be looking around at prices.  That said, I do tend to show ';worst case'; costs as it';s a nice surprise when they come in cheaper.  Swapping the camera for a start!

[Beaver2206]

Why use a lemon RX, i soldered a DSM2 sat straight to the board bound to my JR DSX9.
You need to bind the sat first then fix to the board and change the channel order on the Naze but thats it.
And the latest Naze boards can be powered of the 3s battery no problem.

I used ZTW 12A opto esc,s and DYS motors from Bang Good £46 posted.
And run nano tech 3s 1500 lipo,s. Plenty of power and time.

There is a thread on this frame with some good info, worth spending 5 min looking through it.

Mine is modified slightly with longer spacers between the frames to give more room for the board, plugs etc.

Keep it light and its a quick bugger.

Thanks for the input, I will definitely check that out, though I could see just the sat RX sold separately.  On the other hand, I have the AR6210 w/sat on my 650, could I rob it from there?

[Beaver2206]

Bought the DYS 1806 motors from Johnny for £32.  Gradually shaving those pounds off!

[Beaver2206]

Whilst waiting for the motors (Thanks Johnny!) and other parts to arrive, lets address some fitment issues. 

As anybody who has been reading up on the Tarot 250 might have noted, there are two missing mounting holes on the front arms.  Not sure how this could have been missed - I would have hoped they';d have done some test assemblies - though there you are.  I just hope this isn';t a sign of things to come.

No fear, this is very easily corrected.  I used the PCB base plate to mark the intended position of the holes on the motor arms, then using a pin vice made a pilot hole ready for the Dremel to finish the job!  One job sorted, next. 





The other issued I noted whilst test fitting parts is that the top plate does not sit correctly on the skids when lined up to the mounting holes.  Again, this can be easily fixed using a sharp scalpel.  The fit is still tight, so I may take 0.10mm off of the sides of the plate itself.





I will also update the parts list tomorrow to reflect changes made to the specification.

[rapidg]

I must have a later frame as the holes you talk about are there on mine. Not put it together yet just tested fitted. Need to modify my motor mounts thou as the centre hole needs widening and the mounting holes are only 2mm but motors are 3.


Sent down the wires from home

[Beaver2206]

I must have a later frame as the holes you talk about are there on mine.

I thought that too, though they had revised the incorrect XT60 connector, so I supposed it was a later run.  We';ll never know...

[James.D]

Love the look of this frame wished I';d seen it before I bought the QAV clone frame   

[Beaver2206]

Perhaps James, though I bet it went together easier than this one!

Speaking of which, test fitting has exposed further fitment issues.  Coming from a model making background, this drives me mad LOL.

The skids mount on top of the PCB base plate, sandwiched between that and the top plate.  Tarot kindly provide a location hole on the PCB board, though the raised section on the skids is too big to fit it.  This would result in the gap between the base and top plate being too large for the plastic standoffs - putting extra pressure on both the plastic standoffs and screws but also the arms which are bending to try and close around the standoffs.



The raised plastic area was filed to shape using a Dremel tool.  This has eased the fit and the whole frame feels much more ';relaxed';.



The inner model maker in me also spotted the casting seams on the skids and cried, so I had to fix these!



This is certainly not looking like a beginner build at the moment.  Naze32 Full on the way, so I';m sure to have fun trying to mount that! 

Call me crazy, though I am considering switching the layout around drastically and putting the FC and RX on the top and the battery slung underneath between the skids.  It would certainly lower the center of gravity and  make getting to the FC easier.  Thoughts?

[James.D]

I think the battery underneath the frame inbetween the skids is probably a good idea, As you say it will lower centre of gravity and it will be as safe there as it would be above, apart from a hard landing.

[Beaver2206]

I think the battery underneath the frame inbetween the skids is probably a good idea, As you say it will lower centre of gravity and it will be as safe there as it would be above, apart from a hard landing.

I';m glad you agree.  A test fit shows there is plenty of clearance even with a 2200mAh pack on.



The more I think about this the more I am thinking it is the way forward!

[James.D]

Yeah looks to be a good 30mm clearance there jobs a good un 

[Beaver2206]

Motors have arrived.  DYS1806 from JT (Thanks dude!), very pleased.



I have test fitted one to establish the arm clearance past the motors (important if....when I crash it).



I will do a weigh in once I have the leads cut to length. 

Just need to flog some more stuff on fleabay and the ESCs can be purchased and soldered!

I have decided on an RX too.  I';m going to go with the Orange R615 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271668059335?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[James.D]

I do like the look of the DYS gold motors and the thrust on them is meant to be great.

[Beaver2206]

Let';s hope so James!

Another little update.  The Naze32 Full arrived in good time.  All checks out.  The board connects to the Baseflight GUI and responds quickly to movements of the board when connected.  It';s certainly small, and I';m very impressed with the number of components that have crammed onto it.  Clocks in at 7g.



The header pins have not been soldered, so I can press ahead with that.  I opted for the right-angled pins to maintain the low profile.



The RX and ESC';s have been ordered, so it shouldn';t be long until we see some motors spinning!

In terms of wiring, I will will adopt the following, using the ground, 5v and signal cables from motor 1 and only the signal cables from motors three to four.

[Sweet Pickle]

Was going to 3D print a fun frame as I have all the other bits knocking about..... but I just got too tempted by this frame for £21.
Looking forward to the rest of your build as my component list is broadly similar except for DYS Black edition and Frsky D4R-II.
Always handy to know the pitfalls before I go barelling in myself.
Frame should be here next week sooooo.

[Friskle]

I do like the look of the DYS gold motors and the thrust on them is meant to be great.

got mine from Phil, and they are really good motors for the money, adding T-Motor style props to the also makes a lovely buzz :)

[rapidg]

I got the emax 2204 2300kv. Any one know if they are a good motor.


Sent down the wires from home

[James.D]

I got the emax 2204 2300kv. Any one know if they are a good motor.


Sent down the wires from home

They will currently do the trick but the emax 1806 are meant to be the best choice for 250 quads, see link for more info
http://blog.oscarliang.net/emax-mt2204-mt1806-motor-quadcopter-1804/

[rapidg]

They will currently do the trick but the emax 1806 are meant to be the best choice for 250 quads, see link for more info
http://blog.oscarliang.net/emax-mt2204-mt1806-motor-quadcopter-1804/

Oh dam and blast. Lol will see how it goes.


Sent down the wires from home

[rapidg]

Just soldering up this quad, and found that only the m1 esc connection point carries power to the header pins on the board where you would connect the esc signal/power wire. So no point connecting the ground and power on m2/3/4 of the signal points.


Sent down the wires from home

[rapidg]

All soldered up now. Not using the board to power fpv gear at the moment. May do that at a later date. Here are my pics of it so far. Hope op don';t mind me putting these up.
Now should I go standard rx or a ppm rx. What you folks think.
And should I mount the naze with tape or would you recommend a box or vibration mounting bracket.

Sent down the wires from home

[Beaver2206]

Hi Rapidg, good work on your board, I';ve taken a slightly different path and soldered the wires to the Naze directly to the board.  As you correctly pointed out, you only need signal wires to motors three, four and five.  However, where I have slipped up and you now have the advantage is that I forgot that Motor 1 on the Tarot is actually motor four on the Naze. 



Not a big deal, I just soldered the signal wires for the other ESC';s and adjust the wire layout on the servo connector that will plug into the Naze.

Regarding an RX, I have opted for the Orange R615x.  Cheap and cheerful and features CPPM, so this build is going to be very light on the wiring!

I intend to mount the Naze in a 3D printed case - bright pink no less!

Thanks for your comments sweetpickle, feel free to drop by anytime

[rapidg]

Where did you get yiur case from.


Sent down the wires from home