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Author Topic: 3D Print Fail  (Read 2191 times)

Offline nate80

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3D Print Fail
« on: August 18, 2017, 11:20:17 »
I';ve only had my printer (Malyan M-150 i3 clone) running for 2 days as I';ve been away but already struggling with it.  The first print was pretty flawless.  It was a pre-coded test print (a mouse) that came on the supplied micro SD card.  I';ve pretty much had one issue or another with every print since.  I downloaded a marble run model from thingiverse and have printed all 4 parts, but none successfully.

I did discover the bed thumb screws were de-threaded so I replaced those and the bed adhesion is now good.  Too good.  I can';t get the prints off without damaging them or the print bed surface.  I';ve ordered a sheet of tempered glass to see if this helps as painters tape seems to be nothing but costly hassle.  It tears every time I try to remove a model and it bubbles up and wrinkles with the heat from the bed.  I thought I';d try and use hairspray and gluestick on the glass to see if that helps resolve the over-adhesion issue.

The biggest issue I';m facing is real poor prints with small and large holes and gaps.  I';ve not managed to successfully print any tall and thin model as the wall is so weak it just falls over when it reaches a random height.  I ran this marble run for 18 hours to achieve this:

2.jpg3D Print Fail

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

I know it';s a mess.  I';m not really sure what';s going wrong.  I wondered it it could be the extrusion rate is loo low, or the temperature too low/high, or the travel or print speed?  Or maybe the extruder isn';t working properly and isn';t providing enough PLA filament?

I';ve tried printing with the bed between 30 and 60 degrees constant, and the extruder temp between 185 and 210 degrees.  The bed does tend to jerk about terribly when moved by the stepper motor, which doesn';t help thin and tall models stand upright.  Samslimer mentioned the jerk rate is way off so I think I need to learn about that and fix it.  The filament spool is currently to the side mounted to the separate control box (I thought it';d help reduce vibration to the frame) but should I place it on top of the frame instead?

 :help:  I';d really appreciate some helpful guidance and advice please guys.  Thanks

Offline Doug

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2017, 11:56:58 »
First off don';t mount the filament to the frame if it is vibrating like that it will only make it worse

What filament are you using

What print speeds

also Temperd glass is not the best just go to a local glazier and ask them to cut you a pice (Or2) of Float glass preferable 3mm but you may need to go to 4 (3mm is ususally greenhouse type glass and it can be all over the place.

I sounds to me like you have your slicer set up wrong for what you are trying to print looks like your temps are all wrong and your extrusion rates as well.

Can you just design up a simple disc say 2 or 3 layer think print it and then show a photo of it whilst it is still on the printer. that may give us a better idea of what going on.

Also make sure the bed is cold before you try and remove any prints.

Have a read of  https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/  it may point you in the right direction

Good luck and don';t give up

Also where are you there maybe someone relatively close to you that could have a look for you.

Can you also post a link to those files so I can check that the issue isn';t with them. and What slicer have you used to convert them to Gcode

« Last Edit: August 18, 2017, 12:29:25 by Dougal1957 »

Offline pheasant_plucker

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2017, 16:31:35 »
I use a glass plate and have found that one side will be ultra smooth and difficult to get anything to stick to it. However the other side works beautifully on anything I have tried (PLA, PETG, ABS) using a coating of PVA/Water 1:3 ratio which does dozens of prints before it needs replacing when you simply wash it off and apply again with a piece of sponge to a warm bed.
So when you get your glass try both sides.

Gerry
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Offline DarkButterfly

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #3 on: August 18, 2017, 18:28:51 »
Hairspray on glass works well too, get a nice even coat and anything will stick to it and give a smooth first layer, it';s good for many prints before needing to be re-applied, like PVA it comes off with warm water.

Your prints look like there';s many things set wrong, temperature and print speed spring to mind, try slowing it down a bit especially the extrusion speed, it looks like it';s missing steps.
Why use 4 motors when you can use 6?

Offline Doug

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2017, 18:35:49 »
They is lots going on here and it needs approaching in an ordered way it will not come with just one change and we need to understand a lot of things first before giving detailed advice.

As for print surfaces the easiest and cheapest now is black Polycarbonate sheet with a simple treatment of sanding (With an oscillating sander mind) using 60 grit paper wet)
Everything just seems to stick to it without having to use any heat on the bed at all (PLA ABS and PETG are all in this category) the only time Heat is required is with exotic filaments such as POM PC or PTFE. stuff that most people wouldn';t even look at.

Lets get the basics sorted then go on to the rest

Doug

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2017, 20:49:43 »
First off don';t mount the filament to the frame if it is vibrating like that it will only make it worse

What filament are you using

What print speeds

also Temperd glass is not the best just go to a local glazier and ask them to cut you a pice (Or2) of Float glass preferable 3mm but you may need to go to 4 (3mm is ususally greenhouse type glass and it can be all over the place.

I sounds to me like you have your slicer set up wrong for what you are trying to print looks like your temps are all wrong and your extrusion rates as well.

Can you just design up a simple disc say 2 or 3 layer think print it and then show a photo of it whilst it is still on the printer. that may give us a better idea of what going on.

Also make sure the bed is cold before you try and remove any prints.

Have a read of  https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/  it may point you in the right direction

Good luck and don';t give up

Also where are you there maybe someone relatively close to you that could have a look for you.

Can you also post a link to those files so I can check that the issue isn';t with them. and What slicer have you used to convert them to Gcode

Thanks for the quick reply Doug.  Ok, I';ll leave the filament spool holder bolted to the stand alone power box.  I';m using 1.75mm PLA from Hobbyking: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/esun-3d-printer-filament-white-1-75mm-pla-1kg-roll.html

I';m using the latest version of Cura as the older version came bundled with the 3D printer.

I';ve read that, in general, print speeds for PLA should be between 60 and 70 mm/s, so I';ve tried 60, 65 and 70.  I';ve combined that with Travel speeds of 100, 105, 110, 120 and 130 mm/s.  The faster the travel speed the worse the finish looked.  The print speed differences were inconclusive.

The glass plate I';ve bought is this one: https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/velleman-3d-printer-glass-plate-a70ux  The review on Maplin is from a Maylan M150 owner who is very pleased with it.  Keeping my fingers crossed for the same result.

I thought I had everything set up correctly (temps etc) and have spent an age trying to perfect the mystical art of bed levelling! lol.  I don';t know if I';m getting it perfectly right though.  I use an 80 micron sheet of paper to level the bed by using the auto home feature and then disabling the stepper motors allowing me to move the extruder to the four corners of the heated bed.  When the extruder nozzle grips but still lets the paper slip between it and the bed I stop adjusting.  I';ve done this when the bed is cold and warmed up to 30 degrees and 60 degrees.  The heat seems to make very little difference and the adjustment values seem the same.

I created a 20mm wide x 2mm high disk in Tinkercad and then put it through Cura to create a g.code file.  These were my settings:

2.jpg3D Print Fail

This was the result:

3.jpg3D Print Fail

I felt that I may have adjusted the bed incorrectly as the skirt was so broken and the printed lines had such large gaps between them, so I adjusted the bed closer.  When I tried again the PLA wouldn';t adhere to the print bed.  I adjusted it for over an hour and tried over and over but the PLA just refused to stick to the print bed.  So I thought I';d try the test file that came with the printer, a mouse.  I only have its g.code file, but these are the settings provided by the Maylan M150.

4.jpg3D Print Fail

5.jpg3D Print Fail

And without any further bed adjustment (since the PLA kept failing to adhere to the print bed during the many trial prints) this was the result, which seems to be pretty good and whole load better than all my other prints:

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

I';m pretty confused.  Something is clearly wrong, but I can';t work out what it is.  I';m based in Hersham, near Walton on Thames.  If I can';t get this resolved and there';s anyone near by who could help I';d be happy to provide cups of coffee and beer money to get the printer set up right.  I';d love to print some parts that strengthen the printer frame, but that';s obviously on hold just now.   :laugh:

Oh, and the marble run files were from Thiniverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1385312. I tried various settings based on those supplied by people who';d printed it on an i3 style printer. I attempted prints using Cura';s settings of ';Low Quality'; 0.15mm, and ';Draft Quality'; 0.2mm.  I also tried infills of 20% and 25%.

Think that covers everything.  Really appreciate the help.   :smiley:
« Last Edit: August 18, 2017, 21:04:34 by nate80 »

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2017, 20:58:40 »
I use a glass plate and have found that one side will be ultra smooth and difficult to get anything to stick to it. However the other side works beautifully on anything I have tried (PLA, PETG, ABS) using a coating of PVA/Water 1:3 ratio which does dozens of prints before it needs replacing when you simply wash it off and apply again with a piece of sponge to a warm bed.
So when you get your glass try both sides.

Gerry

Hairspray on glass works well too, get a nice even coat and anything will stick to it and give a smooth first layer, it';s good for many prints before needing to be re-applied, like PVA it comes off with warm water.

Your prints look like there';s many things set wrong, temperature and print speed spring to mind, try slowing it down a bit especially the extrusion speed, it looks like it';s missing steps.

Thanks guys.  I ordered the glass a couple days ago (before my recent print issues happened) and it';s arriving tomorrow so I';ll bare that all in mind.

Cheers D.B.  I wondered if it was at least partially a speed issue.  I';m struggling to fully understand the extruder settings of the Maylan.  Sometimes the extruder is up to temp (190-200 degrees C) but no PLA appears.  Other times it gushes out uncontrollably and I have to keep removing the curls of PLA every 15 seconds.  Also, when I go into the Maylan M150 menu > adjust axis > extruder, I would expect the setting to always start at 0.00 (like the X,Y and Z planes do) but the page always opens to a random number and hardly ever 0.00.  Even after the machine has been turned off it still shows an unexpected positive or negative number when I select the extruder from the adjust axis menu.

Offline Sweet Pickle

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2017, 21:10:57 »
Your filament diameter is set to 2.85 pretty sure the printer you have is 1.75.
Have you set Cura up for the correct printer.
This would obviously give you erroneous errors like you are seeing.
Try the Prusa version of Slic3r. You can still add clones to it so should be able to work with the Maylan

Offline Sweet Pickle

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #8 on: August 18, 2017, 21:33:20 »
It';s for another time as you have bigger fish to fry but your mouse first layer also needs work mate.
Few issues, white painters tape is crap. Use blue tape (Scotch) or find something better. My favourite, as documented on this forum is laminating pouches. You can also get Printbite which is cheap, durable and works well. Then there is the rubber peelable sprays like rustoleum peel coat. Lasts well and peels off clean.
Next up, even with the gcode from the card you seem to have some gapping. This is either under extrusion which can be resolved by upping the flow rate of firmware allows our extrusion multiplier in your slicer. This will vary greatly from one roll of filament to the next so learn to spot under and over extrusion. Try printing a 2cm cube for every roll for calibration purposes.
The last thing to consider is this isn';t extrusion causing the gaps, it might be there isn';t enough squish on the first layer. You can counter this in the slicer or by raising the need a bit closer.

Good luck.  ~~

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2017, 00:31:26 »
Your filament diameter is set to 2.85 pretty sure the printer you have is 1.75.
Have you set Cura up for the correct printer.
This would obviously give you erroneous errors like you are seeing.
Try the Prusa version of Slic3r. You can still add clones to it so should be able to work with the Maylan

Doh! Mistake there. Cheers for pointing it out. Cura must have auto selected that diameter and I forgot to double check it. Every other failed print has had the diameter selected correctly at 1.75mm though.

The online manual for my Malyan said to select a printer from the Cura model setup menu that wasn';t actually there. So I selected the wanhao i3 that the Malyan m150 is based on.

I';ve tried raising the bed more but then the prints generally fail because the pla doesn';t stick and gets lifted off the bed. The nozzle then catches it and pulls it about ruining the print. Maybe the heated alu bed is slightly warped. The m3 adjustment thumb nuts and bolts don';t seem to visually match very well after I';ve levelled each corner. The knurled thumb nuts look sit at different heights on each of the four m3 bolts. They';re not vastly different though. Maybe up to 3 turns different.

Cheers for the advice  ~~

Offline Sweet Pickle

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #10 on: August 19, 2017, 00:41:18 »
You also got draft quality selected. That';s not going to do a quality print.

Is there anywhere to select nozzle width to make sure that';s right as well?
I don';t use Cura do not over familiar.

Offline JeremyE

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #11 on: August 19, 2017, 11:46:37 »
I had many issues one stage with the same variant of this printer.
I used making tape, blue painters tape (I found roughing it with a blade helped), hairspray. Ultimately what I found is that different colour PLA adhere to different surfaces better. The Esun white worked best on hairspray, the black on blue painters tape.

BUT THEN

I decided to buy this: http://ooznest.co.uk/LokBuild?search=lokbuild
It solved my every bed adhesion issue! I stuck it to a borosilicate glass plate and then attached it to the heat bed with clips. Everything just sticks like crazy. You have to be careful when removing prints as they stick so well, but no more adhesion issues.

Another thing I found, was that the sprung extruder and gear is a flawed design. Mine did not provide enough pressure against the gear and as a result I had filament slippage and the printer would under-extrude. Now I have a aluminium spacer and screw so that I can set the height and pressure perfectly and I no longer see under extrusion.

Those 2 mods were massive game changer for me!

Offline Hozza

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #12 on: August 19, 2017, 17:23:38 »
A mate of mine has a Wanhao i3 Duplicator, I asked him to screenshot his settings:
<br /><br />

<br /><br />

<br /><br />

<br /><br />

Hope this is of use as I only use Simplify 3D

Offline Doug

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #13 on: August 20, 2017, 09:18:35 »
There is definitely an issue with the extruder I think there are signs of both under and over extrusion in those prints layers you have shown.

You need to get that bit working correctly before trying to print anything that is difficult (That Marble run is not an easy object to print and you will need everything spot on for it to succeed.

As Jeremy has pointed out the Extruder';s on the Cheap Chinese copies are not the best and it does look like your issue is with the Extruder/Hotend maybe the extruder is varying tension on the filament depending on the pressure needed to push it thru the hotend.

You need to carefully calibrate the rate at which the extruder pushes filament ie if it is told to extrude 100mm of filament does it actually do that amount this is the first step to successful printing

Doug

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2017, 15:36:23 »
I had many issues one stage with the same variant of this printer.
I used making tape, blue painters tape (I found roughing it with a blade helped), hairspray. Ultimately what I found is that different colour PLA adhere to different surfaces better. The Esun white worked best on hairspray, the black on blue painters tape.

BUT THEN

I decided to buy this: http://ooznest.co.uk/LokBuild?search=lokbuild
It solved my every bed adhesion issue! I stuck it to a borosilicate glass plate and then attached it to the heat bed with clips. Everything just sticks like crazy. You have to be careful when removing prints as they stick so well, but no more adhesion issues.

Another thing I found, was that the sprung extruder and gear is a flawed design. Mine did not provide enough pressure against the gear and as a result I had filament slippage and the printer would under-extrude. Now I have a aluminium spacer and screw so that I can set the height and pressure perfectly and I no longer see under extrusion.

Those 2 mods were massive game changer for me!

Thanks Jeremy.  Where do the aluminium spacer and screw go?  Could you possibly take a photo of it, or is it an internal modification?

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #15 on: August 21, 2017, 15:40:40 »
A mate of mine has a Wanhao i3 Duplicator, I asked him to screenshot his settings:

Hope this is of use as I only use Simplify 3D

Mate that is very helpful, thanks.   ::)  Most of my settings were ok but there were a few that were out.  As I';m learning what everything means and does I can see the logic in the settings.  Your friend has a quite low print speed (40), but a faster infiltrated speed (60).  I';ve set mine to 40 and 50, rather than the 60 ad 60 that they were previously.  I find print infill at 60 seems to be messy, but 40 is too slow, especially for long prints.  I';m going to experiment tonight with the new settings.

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #16 on: August 21, 2017, 15:54:35 »
Cheers to everyone for the help so far.  Feels less overwhelming knowing the support from you guys is there, so a big thanks for that.   ~~

The Velleman printer bed glass finally arrived.   :smiley:

It looks good as it';s a perfect fit and I';m clamping it in place with fold back clips.  I';m using the smallest clips possible but they still get in the way of the extruder and fan assembly.  I guess I';m just going to have to be very careful to consider the nozzle position before starting a print or selecting auto home etc.  Auto home always puts the nozzle in the very furthest reaches of the front left corner, so the clamps are a bit of an issue.  I';ve tried changing the Home Position using the printer';s menu, but it just ignores my instructions and always moves the nozzle back to the corner when I select auto home.

I cleaned the glass and sprayed it with 4 passes of Sainsbury';s cheapest hairspray.  I moved the Z stop trigger switch further up the frame to accommodate the 3mm glass and then adjusted the bed height, which was FAR easier with the glass in place.

Here';s the result:

Glass-Plate.jpg3D Print Fail

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

Pretty happy with the improvements so far.  Now I';m going to try outputting some test and calibration prints.

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #17 on: August 21, 2017, 16:00:50 »
There is definitely an issue with the extruder I think there are signs of both under and over extrusion in those prints layers you have shown.

You need to get that bit working correctly before trying to print anything that is difficult (That Marble run is not an easy object to print and you will need everything spot on for it to succeed.

As Jeremy has pointed out the Extruder';s on the Cheap Chinese copies are not the best and it does look like your issue is with the Extruder/Hotend maybe the extruder is varying tension on the filament depending on the pressure needed to push it thru the hotend.

You need to carefully calibrate the rate at which the extruder pushes filament ie if it is told to extrude 100mm of filament does it actually do that amount this is the first step to successful printing

Doug

Okay great, thanks. I found this guide so I';ll give it a go.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-calibrate-the-Extruder-on-your-3d-Printer/

Offline Sweet Pickle

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2017, 07:42:13 »
Cart before the horse but when you have it running nice print off some corner holders in ABS if possible.
These you can fit between the screws holing down the plate in the corners of your bed.
Doesn';t sound like I';m explaining myself well but once fitted they act as a corner bracket and are flush fit so the glass doesn';t move but will not impede the print head even if printing right to the edge.
Plenty of examples on thingiverse.

Another solution is to use thermal conductive sheets that are only a couple of mm thick but will benefit you 2 fold. One is they are slightly adhesive and will stop the glass moving. Two, they will form a beautiful bridge between glass and bed for a more universal heat transfer.

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #19 on: August 22, 2017, 08:54:47 »
Cart before the horse but when you have it running nice print off some corner holders in ABS if possible.
These you can fit between the screws holing down the plate in the corners of your bed.
Doesn';t sound like I';m explaining myself well but once fitted they act as a corner bracket and are flush fit so the glass doesn';t move but will not impede the print head even if printing right to the edge.
Plenty of examples on thingiverse.

Another solution is to use thermal conductive sheets that are only a couple of mm thick but will benefit you 2 fold. One is they are slightly adhesive and will stop the glass moving. Two, they will form a beautiful bridge between glass and bed for a more universal heat transfer.

Think you mean these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:989523  They look good if the glass bed is to stay in place.  I';ve decided to have 2 glass plates that I can swap out after a print tho, to aid cooling and allow me to remove a print from the glass without disturbing the bed.  Undoing all the screws each time would be a pain and could disturb the bed height.  Love the design though.

I';ve looked into thermal conductive sheets but all I can find is thermal pads - often used for connecting heatsinks to chipsets etc.  They get very sticky when warm and won';t let go of the glass plate after a printing session without force which will affect the bed height and require readjustment.  If there';s a tacky solid thermal sheet out there please let me know.  I hoped there would be a 1mm sheet of thermal rubber like the stuff you put on your car dashboard to stop your phone sliding about.

Cheers
« Last Edit: August 22, 2017, 09:25:50 by nate80 »

Offline JeremyE

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #20 on: August 22, 2017, 15:34:15 »
Thanks Jeremy.  Where do the aluminium spacer and screw go?  Could you possibly take a photo of it, or is it an internal modification?

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Offline Sweet Pickle

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #21 on: August 24, 2017, 13:10:24 »
Just worth a mention that you do not have to completely remove the little corner holders each time. In fact with just the right amount of adjustment you lift the glass up. The corner pieces are only there to stop  horizontal movement.
Back when I had to use them I didn';t use metal screws but printed thumb screws so you could slightly release the plate if required. It wasn';t essential mind.

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #22 on: August 24, 2017, 16:15:08 »
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Cheers Jeremy.  :beer2:


Just worth a mention that you do not have to completely remove the little corner holders each time. In fact with just the right amount of adjustment you lift the glass up. The corner pieces are only there to stop  horizontal movement.
Back when I had to use them I didn';t use metal screws but printed thumb screws so you could slightly release the plate if required. It wasn';t essential mind.

Ok, thanks S.P.  I think I will print some of them.  Got quite a list of things to print and do:

Print Z Axis Braces and buy suitable threaded rod
Print Adjustable Feet or Dampening Feet
Print LED Lamp Holders and wire 12v LED strips to transformer with separate switch
Print Filament Guide and Feed Support and buy 4mm pvc tubing
Print Glass Bed Clamps
Print Belt Tensioners
Update firmware to include failsafes including depth stop and extruder min temp settings

Then I want to:

Print Bearing Blocks and Purchase Igus Drylin Bearings
Set up auto bed levelling (probably using an Inductive Sensor)

It';s so ironic that the majority of prints are all to make the printer print better!   :laugh:

Offline JeremyE

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #23 on: August 24, 2017, 16:34:17 »
Print Bearing Blocks and Purchase Igus Drylin Bearings

I bought these. Did one print and they came right off again. They don';t fit my rods snug, so there';s way more play than the original bearings. I';d rather have noise and accuracy than prints that are bad.

Offline pheasant_plucker

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #24 on: August 24, 2017, 17:16:33 »
I bought these. Did one print and they came right off again. They don';t fit my rods snug, so there';s way more play than the original bearings. I';d rather have noise and accuracy than prints that are bad.

Drylin bearings need to be press fitted into a housing to compress them slightly and provide a light preload.

Quote
Set up auto bed levelling (probably using an Inductive Sensor)

You will need to use a capacitive sensor with a glass plate, Inductive won';t see the aluminum through the glass.

Gerry
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Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #25 on: August 25, 2017, 08:47:09 »
I bought these. Did one print and they came right off again. They don';t fit my rods snug, so there';s way more play than the original bearings. I';d rather have noise and accuracy than prints that are bad.

Did you print the compatible bearing blocks for them to fit in?

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #26 on: August 25, 2017, 08:53:53 »
Drylin bearings need to be press fitted into a housing to compress them slightly and provide a light preload.

You will need to use a capacitive sensor with a glass plate, Inductive won';t see the aluminum through the glass.

Gerry

Cheers Gerry.  I think the custom bearing blocks on thingiverse fit the Drylin bearings nicely (from the results I';ve read).

It';s now possible to use an inductive sensor with a 3mm glass plate over aluminium.  An 8mm sensor like the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX is tried and tested and works a charm apparently.   ~~

Nate

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #27 on: August 25, 2017, 09:24:55 »
But. You are then detecting the aluminium plate under the glass which is probably not flat.

Gerry
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Offline JeremyE

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #28 on: August 25, 2017, 10:09:14 »
Did you print the compatible bearing blocks for them to fit in?

I press fitted them to the existing blocks. Clearly not press fitted enough!

Offline nate80

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Re: 3D Print Fail
« Reply #29 on: August 25, 2017, 10:19:48 »
But. You are then detecting the aluminium plate under the glass which is probably not flat.

Gerry

That';s an interesting point. It';s worked for lots of people though. I guess the Malyan M150 alu bed stays flat enough. Even when manually adjusting the bed you';d have to take pinch points at 10';s of bed positions to set a fully accurate and average distance. I guess auto measuring the distance from the aluminium bed in the middle and at the 4 corners through the 3mm glass is generally good enough. Either that or people have only shared positive reports and not the failures.