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  • #91 by trebor on 22 Apr 2017
  • Maybe you should print her off some pastry cutters, get her to make cakes while your enlarging the quad empire.
  • #92 by shawdreamer on 22 Apr 2017
  • "here hun, Ill make up for all my spending by letting you make me some cookies"



    yer.......... might aswell print her off a knife so she can disembowel me in my sleep :huh
  • #93 by trebor on 22 Apr 2017
  • Try and get her interested in the hobby. Print her off a nice pink frame 😄
  • #94 by shawdreamer on 22 Apr 2017
  • she';ll only be interested if I attach the aforementioned knife to the front so she can then disembowel me by remote instead. :sweating:
  • #95 by Reman on 23 Apr 2017
  • Got a little bit of time today, So had a ponder about how to mount parallel motors on the arms of the posible "Y copter" frame project.

    Because one motor will obscure the screw holes of the other I was thinking about making the top mount as a piece of U shaped channel that bolts in through the sides. Then I thought that as "Soft mounting" was the in thing at present, I could make it slightly over sized and use rubber grommets in the motor mount to arm bolt holes....... Then it got a bit silly.

    I started thinking that if I';m soft mounting the top motors, I really should do the same on the bottom ones too.

    OK. What I';ve come up with is this.......



    It would mean 3 bolt holes through the end of the arms and each mount having a tripod of mounting lugs so that each bolt holds both mounts. I';d put a rubber grommet and spacer tube in each of the mounts lugs to give the motor a little vibration damping.

    The concept feels sound in my head, It';s just the agro of a solution that';ll need 6 quite fiddly little bit';s making without me even having a bench vice anymore that';s got me Oooing and Ahhing about whether it';s a good solution. :(

    Considering I could just mount one set of motors directly to the arms and make up flat plates with bolt tabs extending beyond the motor bodys to hold the other ones on, Am I ridiculously over thinking this?
  • #96 by hoverfly on 23 Apr 2017
  • 10p worth,why not make two separate motor mounts from GRP plate and screw the motors on with csk screws,this still allows soft mount. Then  bolt the two mounts with two bolts either end through the  arm.??
  • #97 by Reman on 23 Apr 2017
  • 10p worth,why not make two separate motor mounts from GRP plate and screw the motors on with csk screws,this still allows soft mount. Then  bolt the two mounts with two bolts either end through the  arm.??

    That was the pretty much the original idea, But as I have some alloy U channel sitting here that would fit over the arms with about enough room for grommets, I started getting creative.

    Another thought was to drill 2 vertical holes through the arms, Fit suitable sized grommets in the 4 holes, cut down a pair of aluminium standoffs to 16 or 17mm, And fit them through the grommets with motor mounting plates screwed to them top and bottom. That would make a kind of floating mount that would allow a similar amounts of damping as the saddle mount idea, But I';ve got a feeling it would be a fair bit harder on the grommets due to the main force now going into the sides of the grommet because of the twisting caused by the ever changing rotor speeds ..... Though, Doing it this way I';d probabbly be able to get away with using those bolt on alloy "X mounts" that came with the motors. That would save quite a lot of fabrication work.  :hmm:
  • #98 by hoverfly on 23 Apr 2017
  • That certainly is creative, I know it';s trendy to have damped mounts but a properly balanced motor and prop shoulden';t cause problems. Remember K.I.S.S.  If it ain';t fitted it can';t go wrong.. :beer2:
  • #99 by Reman on 23 Apr 2017
  • That certainly is creative, I know it';s trendy to have damped mounts but a properly balanced motor and prop shoulden';t cause problems. Remember K.I.S.S.  If it ain';t fitted it can';t go wrong.. :beer2:

    Yeah, But who wan';t to be simple? LOL !

    Joking aside, I could go out and buy a stock Y6 frame from somewhere and get this in the air in a fraction of the time, But I like the idea of trying something different. If I tweak the build with ideas I find interesting along the way then I';ll be a happy bunny.

    As I';ve said before, I think I possibly enjoy the building more than the flying at the minute, So the idea of an intricate one off build isn';t really that much of a negative to me.

    I';m starting to think that the second idea of standoffs through grommeted arms could be better now though. The whole assembly would be easier to get right and probably a fair bit lighter.
  • #100 by Reman on 30 Apr 2017
  • I';m waiting for a few bit';s and bobs to turn up for the DIY Y6 frame, And to be honest, I keep coming up with different ideas on how to best make the front arms foldable, So I don';t want to start cutting metal until I';ve finalised the idea and had a play with some thick cardboard to check everything will fit OK.

    As that frames gone back into the "Finalising the design" stage I found myself at a loose end this fine bank holiday weekend, So I had a dig through the "Stalled and half finished projects" pile and found the "Martian II" frame I';d built up and bolted Racerstar 2205 motors to. After another dig through the spares I also found a 20A Racerstar 4 in 1 ESC, An Omnibus F3, Diatone SP2 VTX, A FlySky X6B RX, Some random stackable PDB, And an Eachine 1000TVL camera that I';ve put a Foxeer 2.5mm IR blocked lens on.

    I spent a happy 4 or 5 hours bolting all that together and ended up with this.....



    I didn';t want to stack the VTX with the ESC';s as I had some impressive interference on a previous build doing that, So I had a think and realised that there was just enough room to fit the VTX and RX in their own little stack at the back.



    Some of you may have noticed my strange routing of the motor wires in that second picture, There';s a good reason for that. I started pondering about getting some "250" arms to go on this so it could run 6" props. If I do that I can just unbolt the stack from the bottom, Pull the wires out from under there and get a little over the required inch of extra wire back without having to break out the soldering iron to extend the motor wires........ See, I can occasionally put more than the bare minimum of thought into these things.  :laugh:

    Anyway, Once I got it setup I chucked one of my 1500mAh Turnigy graphenes on it and took it outside. I buzzed it about in the garden for a couple of packs and it seems all good. In angle mode it';s strangely stable considering it';s still on factory PIDs. Also, for a 3s setup it';s got quite an impressive amount of oomph when I mashed the throttle.

    Now I just need to wait for a nice day to give it a proper maden.
  • #101 by atomiclama on 03 May 2017
  • Latest build from bits lying around or scavenged from other builds.
    Wanted something a bit bigger mainly so I can mount my Raspberry Pi onto it and see if I can get any decent pictures.

    So 450 frame from HK
    Sunnysky 2212 1400kv motors 8045 props.
    LB20 ESC
    Flysky stuff
    Raspberry Pi for recording and flight camera.

     [ Invalid Attachment ]
  • #102 by Reman on 06 May 2017
  • It';s a bit too windy around here to fly, So I decided to finally dig out the drill and see if the simple version of the "Damped motor mount cage" idea I was playing with for the Y6 build would actually work......



    It';s just a couple of the "X" mounts you get with most of the older motor designs, some standoffs, And some 5mm ID rubber grommets fitted into the 15mm alloy box section I';ll be using for arms.

    First problem (As is bloody obvious) was that I';d forgot that back when I ordered a big selection of standoffs, The only 20mm ones I could get had a hexagonal profile, So they won';t work.  :embarrassed

    As this is only a proof of concept at the minute I just used some of the 25mm ones I have instead. I';ve ordered a few 5mm x 20mm M3 standoffs to replace these. The grommets are 6mm top to bottom with a 1mm "slot" around the middle, So with 2.5mm protruding top and bottom out of a 15mm box section 20mm should be spot on. Worst case I';ll need to shave a mill or so off each to give the grommets a little preload, but that';s no biggy.

    It feels quite a feasible and simple way to mount opposing motors as it stands, With lots of resistance to being twisted, But still having a little give if forced hard. The standoffs will ensure that the motors can';t flex independently, And I think with a few different hight washer stacks between each standoff and the X mount I could have a quick and dirty way to tinker with thrust angles. I';ve always wanted to try this to see how much giving the props a little dihedral related to each other (Thrust lines converging to a point ABOVE the multirotor';s centre ) effects stability.

    Anyway, I';m starting to feel ill so I better leave it there.
  • #103 by Saleem on 19 May 2017
  • Rotorx atom again!i had to repair the top plate (regardesvous the lollipop sticks) epoxied the mount holes as it did nose dive.

    Rebuilt with a holybro kakute v1 aio,the dtfc hax a twitch i think and i want this quad stable as its realy fast when its running.its missing fpv gear at mo cos i cant hot glue the cam in as i am waiting on new hot glue gun.

    But its kinda my fav!


  • #104 by Reman on 21 May 2017
  • Rotorx atom again!i had to repair the top plate (regardesvous the lollipop sticks) epoxied the mount holes as it did nose dive.

    Rebuilt with a holybro kakute v1 aio,the dtfc hax a twitch i think and i want this quad stable as its realy fast when its running.its missing fpv gear at mo cos i cant hot glue the cam in as i am waiting on new hot glue gun.

    But its kinda my fav!



    Don';t let the other ones know you';ve got favorites, They';ll start acting up. :)
  • #105 by shawdreamer on 21 May 2017
  • yay new wall decoration...

  • #106 by Slobberdog57 on 22 May 2017
  • my latest build

    Rotorious Gat 160mm 4" quad with 1407 brotherhobby motors and betaflight f3 fc



  • #107 by trebor on 22 May 2017
  • my latest build

    Rotorious Gat 160mm 4" quad with 1407 brotherhobby motors and betaflight f3 fc



    How much does that one weigh in at ?
  • #108 by Slobberdog57 on 22 May 2017
  • How much does that one weigh in at ?

    282g all up ready to fly. comes in about 10:1 ish power to weight on static figures.
  • #109 by atomiclama on 22 May 2017
  • 282g all up ready to fly. comes in about 10:1 ish power to weight on static figures.

    What';s the weight of the lipo? What cap is it?
  • #110 by Slobberdog57 on 22 May 2017
  • What';s the weight of the lipo? What cap is it?

    Lipo I think is 106g

    full spec is

    Brotherhobby 1407 3600kv
    Betaflight F3 fc
    Runcam swift mini
    VTX03 with dipole
    Cells Acehe 850mah 4s 75c

    atm spek sat but being changed out this week for a xm+
  • #111 by trebor on 22 May 2017
  • I don';t know where I go wrong, my 140 thug comes in at 345g. I got to cut out the pie n chips.
  • #112 by atomiclama on 22 May 2017
  • Something to aim for.

    How are you finding those props?

    I found they were a bit too heavy, speed pickup and top speed seamed slower, also a bit less stable, more prop wash and bounce back.


    WOOOOH   :o just read the static thrust of those motors and 4045BN 2 blade props. warnings.
    So with tri-blades you are really over doing it. Good luck :evil lets us know how it goes.

  • #113 by Slobberdog57 on 23 May 2017
  • Something to aim for.

    How are you finding those props?

    I found they were a bit too heavy, speed pickup and top speed seamed slower, also a bit less stable, more prop wash and bounce back.


    WOOOOH   :o just read the static thrust of those motors and 4045BN 2 blade props. warnings.
    So with tri-blades you are really over doing it. Good luck :evil lets us know how it goes.

    Pulls about 70a on the tris on climb out, yes its on the limit but flew nice, and yes the props are heavy, trying some gemfan 4045 bi props atm they do seem snappier but less punchy, thinking of trying the dal tj 4x4.5x3 to see what they are like.
  • #114 by atomiclama on 23 May 2017
  • I find these best all round for control speed and not hammering my lipos
    3-blade DALProp T4045 V2
  • #115 by Slobberdog57 on 31 May 2017
  • Bit of an update guys

    Flown with the following results all were flown for 3 mins and tried to do pretty much the same thing for all 4 sets of blades,

    HQ Durable 4045x3 BN, Max amps 70a, 700mah used - great punch but hungry,

    Racecraft 4040x3 BN, Max amps 60a, 550mah used - again great punch a little more efficient but still hungry

    Dal TJ4045x3, Max amps 35a, 375mah used - good punch quite a nimble prop and pretty good efficiency.

    Gemfan 4045 2 blade, Max amps 20a, 320mah used - not as much punch but very nimble and quick reacting blade,

    What will I be using? probably the Dal TJ';s as it seems to be the best compromise.

  • #116 by CaptainSlow88 on 01 Jun 2017
  • X210 build just started...

    X210 Frame
    RacerStar 2205 2300KV Motors
    BLHeli 20A ESCs (still to be installed!)



  • #117 by Saleem on 01 Jun 2017
  • X210 build just started...

    X210 Frame
    RacerStar 2205 2300KV Motors
    BLHeli 20A ESCs (still to be installed!)




    Good tough frame is that,have one in my fleet.
     ;)
  • #118 by ched999uk on 01 Jun 2017
  • X210 build just started...

    X210 Frame
    RacerStar 2205 2300KV Motors
    BLHeli 20A ESCs (still to be installed!)


    Cool. In nect couple of weeks I am ordering the X210 Pro frame, same motors and a 4 in 1 30A RacerStar ESC.
    It would be great to see a more detailed build thread of your X210.
  • #119 by CaptainSlow88 on 01 Jun 2017
  • Good tough frame is that,have one in my fleet.
     ;)

    That';s good to know - with my flying skills durability is a must! How was your experience with it in terms of space for the PDB/FC/Receiver etc?

    Cool. In nect couple of weeks I am ordering the X210 Pro frame, same motors and a 4 in 1 30A RacerStar ESC.
    It would be great to see a more detailed build thread of your X210.

    Thanks, I';m planning on getting some more work done on it tonight (away for the weekend) so will hopefully have a few more updates!
  • #120 by CaptainSlow88 on 02 Jun 2017



  • Managed to make a good bit of progress before going away for the weekend. However...I';ve run into a potential issue. With this build, as with my previous ones, I';m going to be using a CC3D FC that I have lying about. When connecting up my previous builds, my ESCs have always had the 3rd 5V power lead which, along with the signal and ground, connected to the FC. These ESCs don';t have the power lead so I obviously need to connect a separate BEC or use the BEC on the PDB. Can anyone advise the best way to do this? I have a couple spare ESCs with the power lead, which I could cut off, remove the signal wire and connect to the FC from the PDB if that makes sense? Any help is appreciated!
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