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Author Topic: Queries on Wizard, Tiny 7  (Read 85 times)

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Offline Stactix

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Queries on Wizard, Tiny 7
« on: August 11, 2017, 15:14:06 »
Hello all,
Just a few questions on issues that I've encountered, hopefully not too obvious.

Recently brought the wizard and finally had my maiden flight yesterday (Just LOS Angle mode but it was incredible), stock bar a mushroom Antenna. Have a Swift 2 / LED vtx to put in at some point.
Got through 3 batteries without any issues 1 3s 2 4s, on my last 4s battery one of the props came loose so had a guided crash landing with the wizard ending up upside down. After that one of the motors stopped, so I've now replaced an ESC with a racestar v1 20a, updated the software, calibrated but the motor gradually picks up speed up to full throttle with minimum throttle input(It did this before i flashed) . I've read around and I've seen a couple of comments on these ESC's on banggood about replacing all 4 if you use V1's as the stock Wizards are now the V2 version.
I didn't do the reciever setup with the new ESC, is this required for each new ESC? & I've only done the betaflight calibration.
Is there a way around this? I have ordered 3 v2s although I'm not to sure how well 4S works with my stock setup seeing how easily 1 ESC blew, I felt I was quite gentle with the throttle and never really tried testing it's full capabilities. Is it worth canceling this order and ordering a full set of better ESCs? Or can I made do with what I have + the 3 on order from the time being?

Secondly, I'm not currently using my VTX / camera due to me being a muppet and buying the EV800D without properly checking if it was compatible with a glasses user, would it be worth unplugging the vtx for the time being?
I'm tempted to get some fatsharks and some lenses to put in, I'm pretty shortsighted so not sure if this would work. Any suggestions?


Tiny 7

I also recently brought this but haven't been able to fly it
 I couldn't get it to bind although I believe I may of actually bound it on the first try -.- I didn't realise at the time, that when it's bound it won't appear on the transmitter like the Wizard, is this correct?
Second issue I had was that it wouldn't connect to betaflight, I flashed it to the latest version although had to put some pressure on the port to get it to connect to betaflight. That led to two more issues, one the USB port fell off, two the tiny7 decided it would arm itself on battery insert.
Which was fine at first as it was just normal arm speed.. that unfortunately didn't last long.. it eventually decided to up the ante and try and chop my fingers off by taking off on battery input although it did keep flipping over. All of this without the transmitter being on.
I've now got a replacement on the way, could someone please advise me so I don't create a second tiny whoop death machine. :P


If anyone has any ideas thankyou!
My first post, reads like a meltdown!








Online ched999uk

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Re: Queries on Wizard, Tiny 7
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2017, 15:42:10 »
:welcome:
Sounds like you are having fun.
First thing, how did you determine that the esc was damaged? Only reason I ask is that it sounds like your crash wasn't that bad although maybe it was a failing esc that caused the crash? Sometimes people swap a motor with another on the quad. that way if the problem moves with the motor its the motor if problem stays on same arm it's the esc.
Anyway back to looking at the replacement esc. I assume you are not running Dshot? If not I assume you esc are running the same software version (BLHeli xx.x?). If not best to use same version on them all.

There have been quite a few reports of the Flight Controller on the Wizard dying on quite soft landings. Don't just assume that it is an esc! Really need to work out which component has failed. Could be FC channel, ESC, Motor or soldering!! To name but a few possible issues.

Remember props OFF when doing any bench work on the quad. You normally need to calibrate all esc so they know min and max throttle. Unless you are running Dshot then as it's a digital protocol calibrating min and max throttle isn't required.

So get esc FW version all same, calibrate esc and let us know how you get on.

Your issues with the Tiny 7 what transmitter do you  have and which version did you buy?

The EV800D goggles, have you tried buying some £1 reading glasses and trying to fit them in the goggles? Some people have had success doing this. You could use them as a screen for the time being?

As for the vtx, NEVER run it without an antenna as it will probably die!!! Disconnect the power to it if you are not using it but I wouldn't worry too much as it doesn't take too much power, especially when compared to the motors!

PS it is always best to give us an idea of what kit you have when trying to help with issues. Like which esc you bought, which Wizard, which transmitter/receiver etc.

Offline Stactix

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Re: Queries on Wizard, Tiny 7
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2017, 16:07:31 »
:welcome:
Sounds like you are having fun.
First thing, how did you determine that the esc was damaged? Only reason I ask is that it sounds like your crash wasn't that bad although maybe it was a failing esc that caused the crash? Sometimes people swap a motor with another on the quad. that way if the problem moves with the motor its the motor if problem stays on same arm it's the esc.
Anyway back to looking at the replacement esc. I assume you are not running Dshot? If not I assume you esc are running the same software version (BLHeli xx.x?). If not best to use same version on them all.

There have been quite a few reports of the Flight Controller on the Wizard dying on quite soft landings. Don't just assume that it is an esc! Really need to work out which component has failed. Could be FC channel, ESC, Motor or soldering!! To name but a few possible issues.

Remember props OFF when doing any bench work on the quad. You normally need to calibrate all esc so they know min and max throttle. Unless you are running Dshot then as it's a digital protocol calibrating min and max throttle isn't required.

So get esc FW version all same, calibrate esc and let us know how you get on.

Your issues with the Tiny 7 what transmitter do you  have and which version did you buy?

The EV800D goggles, have you tried buying some £1 reading glasses and trying to fit them in the goggles? Some people have had success doing this. You could use them as a screen for the time being?

As for the vtx, NEVER run it without an antenna as it will probably die!!! Disconnect the power to it if you are not using it but I wouldn't worry too much as it doesn't take too much power, especially when compared to the motors!

PS it is always best to give us an idea of what kit you have when trying to help with issues. Like which esc you bought, which Wizard, which transmitter/receiver etc.

Thanks for the response, I completely forgot to mention the packages I brought aha!
RTF Wizard x220
Advanced Tiny 7 with Fly sky reciever using the i6 for both, aswell as some simulators!

I wasn't 100% sure on the problem, 3 motors span so I thought that would justify ruling out the FC, the main thing I noticed compared to the other ESC's was that it became too hot to touch very shortly after putting the battery in even without any motor spin.
So I opted to guess and change the ESC (New one doesn't get hot), after changing it the motor span up and it works fine on arm & on betaflight motor testing even on full throttle. The issue starts when I arm then add a small amount of throttle it gets faster / faster.

I did flash the software it was 1 version out of date compared to the other 3, although the issue still occured.
I've calibrated all the ESC'S via betaflight, where it plays a nice little tune:P
Do you mean I need to individually calibrate each 'new' ESC before I solder it on using the reciever etc? Or is there a way to do this when it's already soldered?

The only thing that's putting me off is the comments on the product I purchased, they are the Racestar v1 20a bhelli apparently the wizard used to have these ones but newer wizards were upgraded to the V2's, I've seen a couple saying if you buy the V1's then you'll need to replace all the ESC'S while the V2's are the same as the stock Wizard so only need to change the damaged 1.
I was just hoping for a potential work around seeing as they are the same brand etc.

Unfortunately my eyes are a bit shyte, so need quite a heavy prescription, I am due for a checkup soon though so may see if I can get a second pair that would fit inside. Although I'm a little bit weary of motion sickness, haven't suffered from it before but never wore any form of VR / FPV goggles before.