• #31 by Cheredanine on 12 Sep 2017
  • #32 by VooDoo on 12 Sep 2017
  • Ah, that sounds straight forward enough. 


  • #33 by VooDoo on 16 Sep 2017
  • Hi, so finished the build all bar soldering on the main power cable.  As advised bought a multimeter and went round all the positive contacts looking for shorts.  With one probe on the negavite battery tab, all is good except for when I touch the "Vid" (at the vtx) / "VTX" (on the FC) / "Cam" (on the camera plug) (worth noting I';ve not got the camera plugged in, or the ribbon cable between the FC and the PDB yet).  The multimeter doesn';t beep, but it makes a sort of crackling sound. I';ve looked for shorts and I can';t see anything that even looks close to a short.

    Do you think this anything to worry about before plugging in the power?


  • #34 by Cheredanine on 16 Sep 2017
  • No that sounds fine.
    If you are at all worried, set the multimeter to measure up to 20 volts, with the cam plugged in, connect the lipo, put the black probe on a ground, put the red probe on that pad, if it tells you the pad is at lipo voltage you have a problem
  • #35 by VooDoo on 19 Sep 2017
  • So, the good news is i plugged the battery in this evening and my quad didn';t go up in flames!  :smiley: .  I can spin the motors using Betaflight so I';ve at least got some of the build right.  The bad news is I';m having TX / RX issues.  They appear to have bound OK (I get an RX symbol on the TX and the bind LED on the RX is on permanently after following the bind procedure), but when I configure the ports how I think the instructions are telling me, I get no movement of the controller bars in Betaflight when I move the sticks.

    RX Link:

    FC link (inc wiring diagram and port config):

    TX is an FS-i6

    I';ve got it wired up for iBUS (taken from the FC link above):  Gnd to Gnd, 5V to 4v5, and PPM/IBUS to RX2.  The way I';m reading the port config is USB VCP should be on and set to 115200, and all the other ports should be off.  Receiver should be set to PPM RX input.  I think this because there are screen shots showing this next to the way I have the RX wired in to my FC, and different screen shots showing different port configurations next to wiring diagrams for DSM2/DSMX and SBUS RX (although confusingly one of the configs actually details IBUS as the Serial Receiver Provider).

    I did read in other posts that you may need to enable UART for the IBUS signal, but the wiring diagrams / port config does look like it details this isn';t required.

    I';ve not changed any settings on the TX as I';ve not read anywhere this is necessary.

    I';m off to do some Googling on this, but if anyone has any suggestions I';d be grateful as always.



  • #36 by ched999uk on 20 Sep 2017
  • Can';t see links but the x6b rx has to be connected to a uart rx port. In bf the ports tab you need to select the one you connected the rx to and select serial rx as the type (can';t see bf so just remembering).
    Then on Configure page select serial rx and Ibus, as long as you connected the Ibus port of the x6b to the uart on the FC!
    Then in rx page you should get movement.
    Hope that gives you some clues. If not post and I can get more accurate info tomorrow.
  • #37 by VooDoo on 20 Sep 2017
  • Thanks Ched.  Just found a Project Blue Falcon video that seems to suggest something similar:

    Will sit down tomorrow evening and have a play with the settings.

  • #38 by ched999uk on 20 Sep 2017
  • Blue falcon (rip) made some really great videos. His video should point you in right direction. If not post back, I have x6b running Ibus on f4 omnibus and did look at the FC you are using.
  • #39 by atomiclama on 20 Sep 2017
  • 2 settings for iBus

    Choose your comport.

    <br /><br />

    Select RX type

    <br /><br /><br />anonymous image hosting<br />

    Jobs done.
  • #40 by VooDoo on 20 Sep 2017
  • Fab, I';ll give that a shot when I get home.  Thanks.
  • #41 by VooDoo on 20 Sep 2017
  • Hmmm, not going to get chance to play with this before the weekend now.  Damn work getting in the way of fun again.

    Just re-reading the comments and looking at the videos, I';m starting to wonder if I';m going to need to flash the firmware on my FlySky FS-i6 to get it working with iBUS?  The video';s in particular show selecting iBUS, but when I go through the menu on my TX, I don';t see that type of iBus selection available.  There is something where I can select iBUS channels 1 - 6 but this doesn';t look like the same thing as in the video';s.

    Firmware on my TX is currently 1.1 27-Mar-2015  which seems quite old.

  • #42 by atomiclama on 20 Sep 2017
  • You don';t need to set anything. The iBus port on the RX just outputs iBus serial data.
  • #43 by ched999uk on 20 Sep 2017
  • on the x6b just use the ibus port and that is what you will get. The TX uses AFHDS 2A to ';talk'; to the rx. The rx then converts that into pwm, ppm and ibus. Just select the ibus port and connect to uart on fc and set correctly in betaflight and you should be good to go.

    PS might also be worth connecting up the battery sense port on the back. You can connect it directly to lipo voltage and it will transmit the voltage back to the tx. If you have the i6 tx you can flash the firmware to go to 14 channels and battery voltage alarms, timer and rssi loopback.
  • #44 by VooDoo on 23 Sep 2017
  • OMG!  It flies!  OMG It';s bl00dy fast!  Like, exponentially faster than my "toy" quad.  It';s going to take a while to get it under control.  And I';m going to need a bigger field to practise in.

    A big thanks to all that have helped along the way, particularly Cheredanine and Ched999uk for their numerous informative posts.  I wouldn';t be up and flying without your help.


  • #45 by ched999uk on 23 Sep 2017
  • Well done mate. Feels great to build things from components and get it in the air.
    I know what you mean about fast. Finished my Martian3 220 two weeks ago and it is so fast in comparison to my F450 with it';s gimbal etc.

    I have flown about 30 batteries through it and I am finally getting the hang of staying within 6ft of the ground while flying squares, fig 8 etc. After asking here I found that thumbs on top of sticks as I had previously flown was no good for me to get precision. I raised the red grips on the i6 and started pinching them. So much more control. Still had many uncontrolled ';landings';, rolls across grass, and 1 ditch into a tree to avoid getting too close to a road as I lost orientation! Only bent 1 prop!!! Amazing....

    Next step for me is more fpv to get used to camera angles and then acro mode!!! :o :o :o :o

    Good luck, take it easy and have fun.
  • #46 by ched999uk on 23 Sep 2017
  • Forgot to say my quad hovers at about 35% throttle. To tame the throttle, in Betaflight I set Throttle Mid point to 35 and then set some throttle expo. I believe what this does is tell the FC that your quads ';hover'; point is not 50% but 35%, then sets the middle of the expo curve to be at 35% not 50%. The expo flattens the response so the throttle is less sensitive around the hover point. It doesn';t limit the max throttle or change the stick position that the quad hovers at just the position of the stick that is less sensitive to stick movement.

    Hope that makes sense?
  • #47 by VooDoo on 24 Sep 2017
  • Flew another two LiPo';s today.  Not really practicing control, just wanging it round LOS at full tilt for kicks.  :laugh:  Starting to think that battery sensor upgrade is a good idea.  To try not to run the LiPo';s down too far, I';ve been setting a timer on my phone for 6 mins.  It';s worked 3 out of 4 times.  The one time the voltage got down to about 3.2 volts which I understand is a bit low.

    The Matek boards I';m running state they have a voltage meter and battery current sensors built in.  I';m wondering if all I need to do is upgrade the firmware on my TX and run the right configuration?  Can data be sent back to the RX over the iBUS (I didn';t even realise the RX could transmit too)?  Or do I definitely need to do some soldering to get this working?

    Need to get another battery though.  12 minutes flying just isn';t enough when you';ve hiked 15 minutes in to the middle of a moor to get away from folks.  Probably go for another 1500 mAh Acehe as I';ve not noticed any difference between the 1300 and the 1500 yet.  Might as well go for the higher capacity.

  • #48 by ched999uk on 25 Sep 2017
  • Am right in thinking you are using x6b rx? Is so there is a 3 pin connector on the opposite side of the rx to the Ibus port. This is a lipo voltage sense port. Connect to battery voltage. Then on the tx look in system, rx and then battery I think. You should be able to set type of batt (lipo) then number of cells. Then I think there is a 2 stage alarm. I think the lipo voltage alarm on tx is available on standard i6 firmware.

    Other than that doesn';t your FC have voltage sense built in that can be enabled on osd?  Thinking about it you are flying los so osd not option. You could set battery warnings in betaflight if you have a buzzer?
    Hope that helps.?
  • #49 by VooDoo on 25 Sep 2017
  •  I';ll take a look at that.  I';m pretty certain I';ve got a connector that will allow me to wire that in fairly easily.  Probably should get a buzzer too, if not for that, for helping find it when I end up ditching it somewhere.

    I';ll probably take a look at the expo you mentioned too.  So far I';ve just wanted to get it airborne, (needed to get it out of my system after spending so long building it) but as I start to looking at getting more control I';ll probably need to dampen down the throttle response a bit.

    On a different note, thought I';d post some pictures of the build:

  • #50 by Cheredanine on 25 Sep 2017
  • Nice mate, so,e suggestions for you though -
    You will get a better fpv signal with a circular polarised antenna,
    You can get the rubber grommets the origional frame uses to protect the xt60 pigtail from hobby rc
  • #51 by ched999uk on 25 Sep 2017
  • #52 by VooDoo on 27 Sep 2017
  • Evening.  As im just flying LOS at the moment, I connected up the little whip aerial to stop the vtx from frying.  I think you recommended the Pagoda aerial.  Ill order a set of these when i order my goggles.  Thanks for the heads up on the grommets.   Ill order some for next time I re-solder the battery wires.  Just using a bit of old camel back tubing at the moment.  Not very neat but seems to do the trick.

    I think battery voltage wire will be this weekend';s project.  The plug has three wires on it.  I presume I only need the posative and negative wire soldering on to the battery wires.  Can';t see what the third wire is for?

      I find the manuals for these boards pretty poor.  I don';t know how you guys figure out what some of these wires connect to.  The Matek FC / PCB connection diagram was good for the basics, but beyond that i struggle.  Is there a book i should have read to help decypher these things?

    Set up throttle mid point and expo today (.45 and .30).  Will see how it flies with these set at the weekend.  Watched a PBF (rip) video on it and it seemed to make sense.  Looking forward to see if it gives me more control.  Tried the pinch grip on the sticks briefly but it didnt feel good to me.  Is that the way everyone flies or do some experienced pilots still fly just thumbs.

    Third battery turned up today, so 18 mins flight time per session now. :)

    The hunt for the perfect practise field continues....

  • #53 by ched999uk on 28 Sep 2017
  • Just 2 wires needed on the connector. I think they just used 3 pin on them all to make things cheaper for manufacturer.
    Any form of grommet is good to stop sharp carbon corners cutting batt insulation and potentially shorting.

    Finding info is sometimes a long hunt. Youtube, rc groups and Google normally yield results but sometimes phrasing search difficult.
    Have fun
  • #54 by VooDoo on 28 Sep 2017
  • Job done.  Now have voltage read out on my TX. :smiley:

    Ched: Looking at your photo';s I';m curious to know why you soldered on to the pads rather than use the connector?

    I';ve been looking at the firmware update for my FS-i6. I googled for the firmware and came to  I downloaded the firmware the other day but wanted to read up a bit more about it before flashing my TX.  Good job I did too, as today my AV (MS Defender) flagged it up as malware and deleted it.  As a test I downloaded it again, along with another firmware for a different model and both of those got picked up by the scanner too.  I don';t know if the whole site is fake, or if it';s genuine and has been compromised?  Might be worth posting something in the TX forum.

    How have you been getting on with that firmware you flashed your TX with anyway?  Any issues?  Will probably flash mine at the weekend to get the voltage alarms.  I wonder if it';s possible to return to the firmware version it came with if you find something you don';t like about it.

  • #55 by ched999uk on 28 Sep 2017
  • Well done mate.
    I soldered to the pads as the other end had a connector on to connect to the Omnibus F4 FC. That way I can unplug the lipo voltage and the other end of the ibus cable at the FC. So I can remove the rx to gain access to things, that plus I would have had to solder wire to wire and heatshrink so just seemed easier  :smiley:

    As for firmware on my i6 no problems at all. This is the firmware that gives upto 14 channels and alarms. Very long thread here: gets a bit too techy at times but if you want all the info it is a thorough read.

    I downloaded the NOSWE fw from And looked at for how to connect the ftdi.

    You can return the fw to factory default, in fact I seem to remember, but could be wrong, that it is a menu somewhere.
    Hope that helps?
  • #56 by VooDoo on 30 Sep 2017
  • So my new practise field is working out OK.  Only had to stop flying the once due to dog walkers.  I had been given permission to fly in a 10 acre field (just stopped and asked the farmer and he said yes) but it';s a bit of a faff to get to, boggy, plagued with midgies and over grown so sticking with my original.

    Anyway, something odd happened with the quad while i was trying out the new field.  There was no level ground so i put it in some long grass at first and then tried arming it while it was in my hand.  It wouldn';t arm at first and when it eventually did, when I throttled up, one of the motors would cut out intermittently and then spin up again.  I decided I must have broken a soldered joint when I re-zip tied the esc'; s to the arms, so packed up and headed home.  On the way back to the car I remembered my toy quad wouldn';t arm once and I thought it was because I was holding it, and didn';t have it sat level on the ground.  When I got back to the car I sat it on the ground and plugged it in.  It armed and the motors span ok, so I took it to my original practise field and flew three batteries through it with no issues.  Is it likely the problems were just caused by the quad not being level and still while being armed?  Is that likely?

  • #57 by ched999uk on 30 Sep 2017
  • A couple of points. Don';t try and take off from your hand it is so dangerous those props are sharp and with just a slip of the throttle you could have serious injuries!
    As for taking off on an angle I think there is a setting in betaflight that enables taking off at less than level. I can';t remember what it is called at moment but have a Google and I am sure you will be able find the setting.
    Alternatively stamp down the ground to get a small flat bit.
  • #58 by Cheredanine on 30 Sep 2017
  • As per ched, don';t take off from your hand

    When you power your quad it decides it is flat and level. If it isn';t at the time, because it was in your hand when you plugged it in, or you had to lean it over to plug it in, then when it is flat and level it is gonna think it is at an angle.

    The parameter ched is referring to is small angle. This is how far off flat at level it can be before it will not arm.

    Further if its understanding of flat and level is off becaus of the reasons above but you do manage to get it armed, it is gonna try and change to being what it thinks is flat and level (if you are using horizon or angle mode), left to its self it will can';t over to one side or corner, if you hold it it will speed up some motors and slow down or stop others
  • #59 by VooDoo on 04 Oct 2017
  • Since previous post, I';ve been taking off on the level and had no repeat issues.  Comments about taking off from my hand noted.  Wouldn';t have normally done that but was trying to troubleshoot and there was nowhere level and dry to try until I got back to the car which was a good walk away.

    Setting the mid and expo settings is working out well.

    So it';s FPS time.  Done a fair bit of research and I think I';ve settled on the Quanum Cyclops V2.  They look to support my vtx frequencies, the price is good at 50 quid plus 8 or so for a battery, and they seem to get positive reviews taking in to account the price.  Will add some pagoda antennas to improve reception too.  Had considered the eachine   goggle 2 but I found the reviews more mixed and they';re almost twice the price.  I figure the Cyclop'; s will allow me to try fpv cheaply.  I expect if I get in to it I';ll just go and buy a fat shark style goggle anyway and use the Cyclops for the kids.